John and Rick,
Thanks for your hints.
I've checked the gaskets. Both could be seen at the front of the engine.
I've checked the torque of the bolts which are not under the valve
cover, but all have the right value.
The sparks plugs look brown/black and white in the middle.
So I tried to start the engine, the starter turned, but the the engine
didn't come.
After several tries it starts but after 5 min in idle it dies without
chance to get it start again!
During this this short run, I checked the pressure on the upper water
tube and it gets harder and harder.
So, before I would get the car to a compression-test, I have to find a
reason why it won't start/run.
If one of the head really is cracked and I need replacement i would like
to try some performance heads (e.g. edelbrock ALU-heads).
Has anyone experience with this??
Which things have to be changed, too?
Thanks in advance,
Sven #2224
John T. Blair schrieb:
> At 10:25 AM 8/31/2008, you wrote:
>
> >at the moment there's no overheating. When I start the engine and
> let it get
> >warmer in idle than it doesn't 5 min. to pressurize the cooling
> system that the
> >resevoir gets smog in it with some bubbles and the radiator starts to
> leak.
> >The tube from the engine to the radiator gets so hard that you are
> not able to
> >compress it by hand.
>
> Sven,
>
> I've never seen that. My guess would be possibly a pressure build up
> from some
> thing.
>
> >Probably it is not one of gaskets, because they have been changed
> just a few
> >weeks ago,
>
> Was the head torqued correctly? Was it retorqued after the engine had
> been
> run a little and brought up to temp?
>
> >but the whole head could be bent. Or a crack in the lower section of
> the
> >enigine block??!
>
> It's possible that a head is bent (warped). You'd have to pull then
> and replace
> the head gaskets. Did you have the heads "decked", shaved to make
> sure they
> were flat?
>
> >In my understanding a compression-check could only find leak which
> are visible
> >in cold and warm state. But you want to find something with this test
> when it is
> >only when the engine is hot??
>
> A compression check will check the integrety of the cylinders. If all
> cylinders
> come up to about the same pressure, the everything is fine. If not, then
> there is something wrong inside the cylinders. So then you want to
> squirt
> about a tablespoon of oil into a cylinder that reads low pressure, and
> then
> check the compression again.
>
> If compression comes up, them the rings are worn and not seating
> correctly, as
> the oil you just put in the spark plug hole will help seal the rings.
>
> If the compression does NOT come up, then you either have a problem with
> the valves, a burned or sticking open valve, or a blown head gasket.
> Either
> way you have to pull the head to see what is up.
>
> As to a hole in the water jacket in the block, that would cause a loss
> of fluid,
> either into the pan or onto the ground. It really would not cause
> pressure build
> up in the cooling system. Because below the pistions is basically
> open to the
> atmosphere, via the PCV valve or the breather tube (in real old engines).
>
> What does you oil look like? Is it a milky brown and foamy, or is it
> pretty clear and smooth?
>
> Also like someone else asked, what do your spark plugs look
> like? Any of them wet, or a large whiteish deposit?
>
> John
> John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948@cox.net
> Va. Beach, Va
> Phone: (757) 495-8229
>
> 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
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> 65 Rambler Classic
>
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>
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