Scott,
I put the control valves in ol' 1343 shortly after I converted to the air
latch. I had to because the doors wouldn't latch all the way. The residual
pressure in the cylinders was holding the latch open until the door was all the
way down. I got tired of having to "bounce" the doors to get them to latch
every time I closed them.
I've been happy with the control valves even though they were expensive.
However, if I had to do it all over again, I probably would have stayed with
the
electric latches. Terry seems to over engineer things.
Marvin
In a message dated 8/18/2008 2:56:54 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
isensee@aol.com writes:
> I spoke to one of the guys in Terry's shop today. My air door system was
> put in 20+ years ago. It has air continuously applied to the door latch
> whenever the door is open so a leak in the air latch, like I have, causes the
> pressure to leak out and the door to close. Newer designs have a control
>valve that
> supplies pressure to the latch only long enough to open it then the line
> closes off. They recommend converting to that. Then the leak in the air latch
> won't really matter. So I am ordering one of those control valves. I just
> thought you might want to know the resolution of the problem in case anyone
>else
> encounters it in the future.
>
> Scott
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