I don't know of a way to test the master. The vacuum booster just
multiplies your pedal pressure; it will not cause the problem you have.
Good flow from the bleeder screw tells you the lines are clear but does
not indicate the actual wheel cylinders and calipers are working. I've
tested calipers by removing one and having someone very gently press the
pedal while I observe the piston moving out. Make sure you stop before
it comes all the way out. I then push the piston back in with my hand.
It will be very difficult to do by hand but should go all the way back
in.
To test the wheel cylinders, I pull one drum and shoes and have the
person gently press the pedal while I hold the pistons with my index
finger and thumb. As the person presses the pedal, it should force my
fingers apart. Then I should be able to squeeze the pistons back in
with my fingers. I repeat this several times for each caliper or wheel
cylinder. Any sticking, roughness or travel limitations are suspect.
Stephen I. Early
Card Services Technology
Bank of America Corporation
800.441.7048 x74788
stephen.early@fiacardservices.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-bricklin@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-bricklin@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg Schroeder
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 3:55 PM
To: Early, Stephen; Bricklin@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Brake Issues Still
Stephen,
I sent the booster and master to Cardone through RockAuto to be rebuilt.
I
am hoping that is not the issue, but even new parts fail so it may be a
candidate. The fluid being drained from each wheel seems to flow well.
I
am not see any significant difference for each wheel.
Is there a good test for the master?
I removed vaccumm from the booster and there was a significant
difference in
braking without the vacuum. So I believe the booster is working.
Thanks for the information.
Greg 0036
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