Joel,
>From what you described it sounds like your problem lies with the wiring of
the MSD or your one-wire alternator. I am not sure how it was wired, But I
can explain how the amp meter is wired. From this explanation, you may be
able to figure it out. Now I do not know the degree of your knowledge when
it comes to electronics, so please forgive me for spelling everything out
from the basics. Someone else reading this may not know. Having said that,
lets begin.
The positive side of the battery connects directly to one side of the
starter solenoid. The RED wire from the amp meter also connects directly to
this same point. Now the black wire on the other side of the amp meter does
NOT go to ground like a black wire should. It is soldered to the big red
wires in the wire harness under the dash. These big red wires go to the
followings items. The fuse block, the steering column, the headlight switch,
the horn relay, the voltage regulator, and the alternator. POWER IS
CONSTANTLY SUPPLIED TO THESE ITEMS whether or not the key is in the on
position. Also, EVERYTHING but the starter motor passes through the amp
meter. That is why nothing works if you remove the amp meter. Unless you
hook the red and black wires back together.
The amp meter is reading the current of the battery all the time whether or
not the key is on. To demonstrate this, if you turn on the headlights, you
will see the needle drop a little. As I said earlier, one of the big red
wires goes back to the steering column. From there it returns to the fuse
block (and several other places) on big pink wires to supply the Switched
+12.
Now you have enough information to find the problem. A famous person once
said, "if you rule out everything it can't be, the only thing you are left
with is the correct answer". Or something like that.
So, we now know that...
if you amp gauge is fine with the key turned off, then we know that it
is NOT the horn relay, the headlights or anything connected to the
constant +12 on the fuse block. I would also say the alternator and voltage
regulator, But I don't know how you rewired your alternator.
if the amp gauge is fine with the key turned on with the engine NOT
running, then we know it is NOT anything connected to the switched +12.
if it only happens when the engine is started or while it is running,
then it has to be either the alternator, or the MSD ignition. We know it
can't be the starter motor, because it does not pass through the amp meter.
I need to know how these items are wired. Did you remove the voltage
regulator, and/or the solid-state ignition module?
If you would like a set of wire diagrams for the 75 Bricklin, they are
available from me for $25.00 It comes to you as a PDF file through email.
It can be printed out to form a large wall map that shows where every wire
goes. There are pictures and also shows how certain assemblies work. They
are also on EBay.
Hope this helps,
Larry in LV
#2046
|