At 10:41 AM 12/12/2006 -0600, Greg Schroeder wrote:
>
>1) Power Windows - I have not had much luck here, but there appear to be
>several options. The package from Autoloc that I purchased could not deliver
>enough torque to lift the window. I have seen several motors and mechanisms
>on ebay that may be a candidate, but I am not really sure which would work.
>replacing the passenger side door skin with fiberglass. I would like to
>take another attempt at the power window while I have the skin off.
Greg,
On the issue of the power windows, probably the biggest problem is the
initial effort required due to the way the Bricklin windows were originally
installed. It took way too much effort to roll the window up and down.
So if you are looking for a power window system, you'll have to address
a "redesign" of the window system. There are basically 2 types of power
window systems I've seen, 1. a motor that attaches to the existing regulator,
and 2. the type that replaces the regulator.
Regardless of the method you use, you'll have to reduce the effort
required to move the window up and down. The success you have here will
depend on how much your doors have been modified. Refer to the article
I wrote on rehabing the doors Part 1 in the July 05 Brickline. Since you
have a 74, you do not need to worry about the guide rail part. But you
will have to worry about the "U" channel being welded to the horizontal
track bar - or what ever it's called. Has this been done? If so, then
you may need to remove the window and U channel from the track bar.
You will have to look at shimming the power system to get the least amount
of drag. So I'd start by gutting the door and only have the windown and
the channel/frame it sets into installed. Then see how easily you can get the
glass to slide in the frame. Try moving the bottom of the window outward
and inward to reduce the effort. Also do you have the original felt in
the frame? If so, if the felt is worn off, this may give you some problems.
If you can get the window to slide up and down easily, then you can try
replacing the regulator with an aftermarket regulator for the power windows.
Again, you'll have to pay attention to shimming it to let the window
move freely in the frame.
I don't know if this is really of any help, or how much you can reduce the
effort required to move the window up and down, but that's where you'll
have to start.
John
John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948@cox.net
Va. Beach, Va (eBay id: zebra48-1)
Phone: (757) 495-8229
48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III
65 Rambler Classic
Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin: www.bricklin.org
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