I never heard of taking those panels off just to rust-proof and check brake
lines. Is it really necessary? They were originally both riveted and glued,
and you have to be extemely careful removing the lower panels from the acrylic.
If you have to take them off, it's more important to avoid cracking or
damaging the acrylic fenders since the lower panels are more or less
disposable.
There is nothing special or authentic about the lower panels and Terry makes
new ones out of fibreglass down at his shop (technically, John L. manufactures
them.). My lower fender and body side panels got slightly damaged in the
infamous "runaway trailer incident" and it was easier to just put new ones on.
George Curley (#670, 220)
In a message dated 4/4/2005 3:08:49 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
gschroeder@comcast.net writes:
> What is the best method for the pop rivet removal on the black ground
> affect
> panels? I want to remove these to do some rust proofing and check the brake
> lines, but I do not want to cause any damage to the panel. There are already
> a
> couple of cracks around some of the rivets. My thinking is to drill these
> out, if that is the case what is the recommended drill bit for these? If
> anyone has a passenger side panel in good condition I may be interested in
> purchasing that. There are a couple of chips out on mine near the wheel. I
> may try to do a repair in this area. I am not sure how involved it will be.
>
> I am hoping to complete the install of the second leaf spring on the
> passenger
> side this weekend. So the rear should be close to being finished. Shock
> cross
> member, shocks and leaf springs. Not much left there, but my wallet is
> about
> $500 lighter. My next step will be to work on the middle of the car for
> rust
> prevention.
>
> Greg 0036
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