Greg,
John and Alan pretty much summed it up. It's a tedious process but you need
to compare each vacuum line with the manual. The one other thing I'd do
while you're in there is test each vacuum operated component. You can buy a
tester at Sears to make that job easy. The tester looks a lot like a pop
rivet tool with a gauge attached. You attach it to a vacuum component, for
example the distributor vacuum advance, and pump it up. If you can't pump
up a good vacuum you have a leak. Watching the bleed down rate on the gauge
will also help you identify slow leaks which can be otherwise elusive.
Besides the components John mentioned the 360 had a valve screwed into the
cooling system near the distributor with three vacuum nipples. The ignition
advance vacuum line from the carburetor went to the valve and then to the
distributor. I can't remember where the third nipple connected. It's
purpose was to prevent ignition advance during warm-up. If the valve fails
you may get no advance at all.
Stephen I. Early
Portfolio Conversions
Technology Sector-MBNA America
302.457.4788
800.441.7048 x74788
stephen.early@mbna.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Schroeder [mailto:gschroeder@comcast.net]
Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2005 21:50
To: bricklin@autox.team.net
Subject: 74 360 Engine Vacuum Hoses Missing
While replacing the thermostat and installing an electronic ignition I
noticed
some of the vacuum hoses were cut and a screw was inserted. When I go
through
the manual and check for the hoses I see several rerouted and others that
are
missing. The engine appears to be running fine. How important are the
hoses
to be correct in the correct places? What would I notice as something that
is
not working correctly?
Greg 0036
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