1) You can use the twin flex-a-lite 10" in push mode to supplement the stock
set-up. You can put this in with a Temp sw. used for elec water pumps that
can tap right into the water jacket and a HD relay just to be safe. This
tucks under the front so no one can even tell its there, until it turns on.
Great idea to have off batt circuit since heat rises and crackles stock
hood. Not to mention curls stock hood corners, yada yada.
2) Once again, a several fundamentals:
a) timing! more advance = more heat than you would think!
b) Clutch! slipping clutch = more heat
c) dirty radiator! nuff' said.
d) fan shroud! none = more heat
e) fuel mix! lean = more heat
f) position of fan blade to shroud (about midpoint or a little greater
inward)
g) 17" steel or alum blade NON-flex race fan is made by flex-a-lite
(although you lose an inch) Pitch is more important than # of
blades!
h) AOD tranny! Less rpm = less heat.
The 75 Bricklin is one of the few cars that actually gets hotter at
typical hwy cruising speed! This may mean a fan clutch is not a good idea.
I use a 2" alum ext. by flex-a-lite.
The oddball hwy band heat increase is gone!
This all pertains to a 75. The 74s were not notorious for overheating.
This is due to engine characteristics, emissions control differences, line
up of fan to radiator.
stephan #2821
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