At 10:10 AM 5/18/02 -0400, David Peabody wrote:
>On another topic, I found the 3 ground wires you were talking about and they
>were all are connected, so I cleaned the contacts and re-attached them with
>no changes in the dash lights. My headlights, including high beams and
>parking lights have always worked fine.
Dave,
If it's not the ground, then your back to the power side. I'd start by
pulling the headlight switch from the dash and let it hang down so you can
get a voltmeter on the various connectors. NOTE: If you haven't pulled a
headlight switch from a GM car, their tricky. You have to pull the knob
first. There is a trick to it. From the article I wrote on pulling the
dash, which is on the web page:
To remove the knob from the headlight switch, look under
the dash at the bottom of the switch. You will see a small
pin with a spring wrapped around it(See picture left, red
arrow). Push this pin in and pull and twist the knob. The
knob and the entire shaft will come out. It takes a little
fiddling with to get the thing apart. Who would have guessed?
Now that the knob is removed, the round black nut can be
unscrewed and the switch can be removed from the dash.
Check to see that you have power (with the headlights to the parting
lights position) on the front of the headlight switch:
1. on the wiper arm
2. the wire resistor where it is connected to the headlight switch. There
should be a rivit like thing holding the resistor to the switch. Check
on both of these rivits.
Note: there are 2 wires that aren't connected to the main headlight
connector:
a. A black wire
b. A Grey wire - the Grey wire should be the dimable lights wire.
I just spent some time with my wiring diags. in the shop looking at my
car to tell you where the grey is connected. I can't, mine are cut/broken.
So I don't know. This is also lacking in my wiring diags. Can you tell me
where and how they are connnected? (If you have a digital camera and can
take a picture that would be great. If not, don't worry, I'll check with
one of the 2 Bs in this area one of these days.)
Since it's not the ground, I'll lay you odds, that you don't have power on
the Gray wire on the 6 pin connector that carries the power to the lights.
That means, that either your pot (variable resistor) is broken, the rivits
aren't making good connection, or the light switch is broken internally.
So look there.
BTW, it's not pouring here, but we have gusting winds and rain. It was
supposed to come through overnight, but apparently stalled and is just
getting here. They were predicting heavy rains and thunderstorms for
late last night.
Good luck Dave, and let me know what you find.
Greg - have you been following this discussion? Have you had any luck at
fixing your lights?
John
oneis - on
>Next step will be to follow each wire to its correct component and check the
>connections. One more thing to confuse the situation, I found the courtesy
>light stayed on, even after turning the headlight knob both directions until
>it clicked. I ended up removing the light bulb so it wouldn't drain my
>battery. I still don't get any power from the red indicator lights; defrost,
>door ajar & most importantly, OIL! However, I do get a pressure reading on
>the oil gauge.
>
>When the weather gets better I tackle them again.
>
>Dave
>
>
John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net
Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229
48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V
75 Bricklin SV1 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III
65 Rambler Classic
Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin: www.bricklin.org
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