> I just bought 1387. I now have the pleasure of addressing all the
"goose
> eggs" that I come across.
> The first outing showed that:
> 3) The door window up/down mechanisms rattle.
This could be one of several things, the regulator or tracks could be loose,
there are several bolts under the door panel as well as around the outside
of the door that should be checked for snug. The channel isolator could be
worn or missing causing the window to rattle or there is a little track up
high near the rear of the door that a metal roller snaps into and sometimes
pops out. It is held on by 2 1/4"bolts and can easily be fixed. there is
also a small alignment ball bolted to the front of the window track that
rides in a vertical track that could be loose.
> 4) The headlight mechanisms seem to have a mind of their own; either
side
> popup while driving around typically followed by the other. Luckily they
> stay put at night! They seem to show this idiosyncrasy soon after I step
on
> the execrator.
You have witnessed the infamous dancing headlights. the default position for
the headlights is open for safety reasons, vacuum is used to close them.
When you step on the gas there is a drop of vacuum and the headlights do a
little dance for your entertainment. this is common for the brick. If it is
excessive you may need to check for vacuum leaks or replace the front seals
in the actuators (available from Zip Corvette for about $10 @)
> 5) The #$% doors! I guess we all can write a book on those, but for now,
> one of the it's problem is that the ball-mounts that hold the gas-strut
> arrangement for the doors are there, but the mounting around them are all
> twisted to the point of not being useable.
The struts are available from either Bob Hoffman or Terry tanner (see
Bricklin.org) for their contact info). if the mount areas are junk that has
to be fixed before you replace the struts. My 76 has the struts going the
opposite direction (out side on the body, inside on the door)of my 74 or
5(inside on the body, outside on the door), so you could change their
location but they will tear out very quickly if not reinforced behind.
> Some other miscellaneous questions are:
> 1) What the heck is the bypass switch for? What does it bypass? It
look's
> like a small plastic stick protruding from underneath the dash in front of
> where your left knee would be.
This bypasses the headlight switch and allows the headlights to stay open.
By the way I have a bunch of NOS parts for sale and can email you a list if
you want.
Rick 0539/2028/2884
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