At 03:09 PM 3/10/01 -0500, Keith Kelley wrote:
>I'm a little confused about something on the parts cross
>reference list. This winter, both of my door latch solenoids
>completely stopped working. They were flakey before this, but
>now they don't work at all (And this only 8 months after a
>complete professional door rebuild).
>
>So I open my door panel and I pull one out and determine it
>to be junk. Then I go to my nearest trusty parts cross
>reference (I must have about 20 copies) and I order the
>replacement part from JC Whitney. Fast forward one week, it
>arrives.
>
>The unit I took out of the door has a plastic arm
>and is 7 and a half inches extended, and has a hole large
>enough to stick the metal connector into.
>
>The unit from JC Whitney has a metal arm and is 3 and
>a half inches extended, a completely different method
>of mounting and a hole too small for the metal connector
>(but too close to the edge to drill).
>
>The range of motion on the plastic unit is one inch.
>The range of motion on the new metal unit is one half inch.
>
>So the question is: what makes this a replacement?
>How do I make it work? Who has done this?
Keith,
There is a disclaimer at the top of the document that it is not guarenteeded.
In the case of the door latches, it states that the original solenoids are
no longer available. So it seems to reason, that any generic aftermarket
part would require some modifications to fit/work.
The original door latches were poor at best. The best solution for replacing
them is to go to Terry's air latches if you have air doors. The only problem
with them is they are expensive - $200 a set!
>So the question is: what makes this a replacement?
It is a electric operated door solenoid.
>How do I make it work?
Can you fabricate another rod that will fit the new solenoids?
Another possibility, is the take a small piece of metal and weld
weld the new arm to it. Then cut the old arm to fit and weld it
to the plate.
Another solution might be to make a metal mounting plate that attaches
to the original mounting ear, but that is longer so as to mover the
solenoid closer to the door latch mechanism. There by letting you
us the new 3" rod vise the original 7" rod.
John
John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net
Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229
48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V
75 Bricklin SV1 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III
Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin: www.bricklin.org
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