Hi Keith,
I had just a limited time with Bricklins in the snow when I drove TT's car
(or attempted to drive, living in Miami for too many years). Although TT
was able to finesse the B like an old pro, his compressor switch froze and
drained his battery (using a marine rated covered switch would have been
more appropriate). Also using Optima's Yellow Top dual start/deep cycle
battery should resolve any battery issues, as this battery is truly a unique
bird. Of course, a good alt is required that can take the higher drain.
The doors worked fine though so maybe yours need some light lube and I
would really suggest putting a drier/oiler in the line.
As for overheating, the lower t'stat might actually work against you.
IMHO, the best fix for this is installing a t'stat regulated twin elect fan
IN FRONT of the rad and condenser in push mode. This has worked incredibly
well in keeping mine well within limits (180-210) whether high speed
cruises, standing idle, or midday stop and go traffic and I'm producing a
lot more hp (heat) than stock. Do NOT remove the gaskets at the hood/cowl
line as this then allows fumes into the fresh air vents! This idea is not
only poorly conceived, it's downright dangerous!
The rear defroster can have several problems including breaks in the
grid, or a weak connection at the hatch soldered terminal among the typical
stuff.
The door leaks are another problem and even after TT's install of new
seals, adjustments and promises, they still gush and the new seals are
already deteriorating!
The blower mod TT performed really f'd up my vent system since it
disconnects the defroster control and screws everything up and so not only
would I not recommend it, it should be condemned!
Either Bob H or TT should have the p/n on hand for the blower motor.
There still appears to be a search for a higher speed motor that rotates in
the RIGHT direction. I'm all ears on this one.
Well, I hope some of this helps. As for rear traction, I think snow tires a
re a good idea. The stock B (any year) does not have an extraordinary
amount of HP at the rear wheel, and it certainly is no featherweight.
stephan #2821
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Kelley" <kkelley@comauction.com>
To: <Bricklin@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2000 2:00 PM
Subject: Heater Blower Motor and Winter Bricklins
> Does anyone know the part number of the heater
> blower motor? The fan just stopped working,
> and its not the fuse, so... I am actually driving
> my car this winter, so it's kind of critical
> I find a way to fix it, if not for the warmth,
> then simply for the visibility. Already my
> rear defrost does not work.
>
> Other winter problems I have had, if it will
> disuade anyone from attempting to depend on their
> Bricklin in the winter include:
>
> On particularly cold days, my doors would not open,
> after rebuilding the solenoids in the compartment
> behind the driver's seat, they open most, but not
> all of the time.
>
> My electric air compressor (only a year old), on
> cold days sounds sickly, and today blew fuse after
> fuse before overcoming whatever hurtle it needed
> to before croaking to life again.
>
> When my heater was working, leaving the car running
> long enough to warm it up for a) passenger comfort
> or b) to allow the doors to work, would cause my
> car to overheat to such an extent that it would
> stall and not start again. And I do have a new 160
> degree thermostat in it.
>
> Getting out of my driveway a couple of days ago,
> the sheet metal beneath my driver's side floorpan
> was ripped off by the snow, along with the switch
> that changes from headlights to brights. I hope it
> wasn't important.
>
> Getting into my driveway, I will often catch snow
> causing my belts to get wet and squeak something fierce.
>
> At the slightest snow, the Bricklin will get stuck,
> or slip. It's too powerful, rear wheel drive, and
> way too low. admittedly, I should buy snow tires,
> though I think it would not make enough difference
> for this area.
>
> Once, while I was stuck for a while, my transmission
> made funny noises any time I put it in park, it
> stopped when I got it out of the snow, but it also
> just about stopped my heart when it did it.
>
> When the snow is thawing, the roof leaks water; the
> doors leak cold air all the time.
>
> The battery, new, gets weak often in the winter, no
> doubt due to the extra draw by the air compressor and
> the fact that I only live 2 miles from the office.
>
> These along with the failure of the defroster and
> rear defroster due to whatever little Bricklin
> electrical gremlins, make the car undrivable in the
> winter, make for alot of time standing or driving
> in the cold, make for alot of fixing of things
> in the cold, and generally make for a miserable
> experience.
>
> The moral is, plan ahead, buy a winter car, if you
> ever thought you could make it through the winter
> because you don't drive much, you can't, not really.
>
> So, because it's too late for me, before I get on my
> knees in the snow to try to pull my blower motor
> (I can't get at my garage because of the snow drifts)
> does anyone have that part number?
>
> Thanks,
> Keith Kelley
> #1766
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