1. to test the F terminal, disconnect @ regulator and attach Ohm meter
between F on harness and Ground,(maybe you should test for voltage first, if
you have voltage you have short to power someplace) Should read 4 to 250
Ohms. Zero means short to ground and infinity means open either in a wire
or the alternator. With the F terminal disconnected from the reg. there
should at no time be any voltage on F. If there is you have a wiring problem
which is bypassing the regulator.
3. I would try @ the lowest setting first to see if you can shut off the
alt. (ammeter @ 0 while running) then go up to maintain voltage in the
battery. DO NOT go above 15 volts! Most diodes in the alternator will fail
if run at high voltages. I don't know why you need an adjustable regulator.
It will not get any more juice out of your alternator 60 amps is 60 amps if
you are having power consumption problems go to a larger alternator. Any
good rebuild shop should be able to stuff 80-90 amps into a stock housing.
This will give you more capacity for power accessories. The higher voltages
will only make your battery and many other electrical components croak
sooner as most are designed for a MAX of 14 volts. So unless you are driving
an all out race car and need more voltage for your superhot ignition stay
closer to stock voltages(<14).
4. The S wire may not be required by your Bricklin regulator but that is not
to say that it isn't required by the adjustable one. Run a jumper from the S
term on the alt to the appropriate spot on the regulator, or better yet
disconnect the regulator and put a stock one back in!
One quick test for a short to power before you start is to unplug the
regulator then start the car. the alternator should not work and there
should be no charge action, if there is you have a wiring or alternator
problem.
hope this helps.
Rick 2028\0539
----- Original Message -----
From: alphachi <alphachi@writeme.com>
To: <Bricklin@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 30, 2000 10:34 AM
Subject: Rick: alternator, ammeter, and the Flux Capacitor.
> Hi Rick,
> 1) How can I ring out the F terminal on the regulator? I know the A
should
> read the same as the battery voltage or it will cause the alt to charge.
>
> 2) The diode you mention is recommended by MSD to prevent run on, so
that's
> great troubleshooting on your part. I'll get the heaviest diode I can
find
> at radio shack since the guys who installed the box lost it.
>
> 3) But what I'm not clear on is that if the adjustable regulator is set to
> voltage above the batt, i.e. >12.67, why wouldn't the regulator call for
> more charge???. I understand most regulators are normally set for about
> 13.5-14.7.
>
> 4) Not sure where the Alt "S" terminal leads to since I thought it went to
> the Reg "I" terminal and an idiot light, since an ammeter is used, the 75
B
> manual says the Stator on the alt does not to be connected. Once again,
> the guys who did much of the motor work had a lead hooked up, no telling
if
> they found one there originally. The instructions with the reg only
stated
> if "I" terminal used, so I guess it's not necessary
> I don't remember the brand off the top of my head, I'll have to check. It
> is electronic and has a small adjustable pot behind the cover.
>
> 5) The problem started after all the mods were done, i.e., box,
distributor,
> tach adapter, etc., so it's hard to determine the problem that way. And
> yes, it is a 75.
>
> 6) Rick, on the condenser, where did you wire it in the circuit? I'm sure
I
> can find a generic radio filter/condenser at local auto supply.
>
> 7) I'll check the circuit on the ammeter to make sure it isn't grounded
> somewhere or a loose connection since the panel has been off twice.
>
> Thanks again Rick. Hey, if you're ever in Miami. . .
>
> stephan #2821
>
>
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