Dear John,
I do not know if this will help you in your problem, but I had a similar
problem after the cars has been running for ~1/2 hr. My car #127 starts great
cold, after I changed the spark plugs to AC - added a new MSD blaster2 coil, and
coil wire. BUTTT, when the engine gets hot, it stops. You can turn the key on
but all you get is just a click, everything else is dead. Then when the car
sits for ~21/2 hrs it starts great again. What my friends and I found out was a
faulty starter relay, inside the engine compartment, it looked like it was
fried. When I took it of the ignition wire was practically hanging on by a
thread of wire, plus inside the different contact points were way misaligned.
The contacts inside can get misaligned by the power nut attachment point. This
point which has a nut, should be secured with a star washer to hold it in place
from new. I am hoping that it is the end of the heated car problem, hope this
helped a little bit.
Ed Eberhardt
#127
John T. Blair wrote:
> Hey gang,
>
> I've been out playing with 887 a little. Got her running, but I've got
> a couple of problems I can't find. I'm looking for any ideas, suggestions,
> etc.
>
> Problem 1 Symptoms:
> 1. When cold she runs great - lots of stable vacuum.
> 2. When she warms up - develops a definate miss, run poorly, and vac. drops
> and isn't very stable. The idle adjusting screws don't seem to do much,
> and are currently almost all the way out.
> 3. When warm, if you close the choke plate a little the rpms increase. I'd
> think this means that it is tooo lean.
> 4. Exhaust burns and smells sharp - and rich.
>
>
> What's been done:
> 1. Carb rebuilt several months prior to running eng.
> 2. Not running on gas tank, running from a 3 gal. gas can into the fuel line
> at back of car - where connects to gas tank.
> 3. New distributor - it moves freely - adjust to best rpm & vac.
> 4. Disconnected ALL vac. lines from tree at back of eng. except the large
> one for the brake booster. I've looped back vac. lines on each of the
> outputs from the vac. tree. So I 2 pieces of vac. hose looped back on
> 4 of the ports, 1 of the ports goes to the vac guage, and the last port
> goes to the EGR valve. There are 2 ports off of the carb, one on the
> front that goes to one of the thermo switches. I need to check and see
> if I plugged that. I thought I had, but don't remember now. The other
> large port on the back of the carb. connects to the heat raiser tube from
> the intake manifold.
> 5. I've checked the firing order several times.
>
> Problem 2 symptons:
> 1. When I put it in gear, idling at <1500 rpms, it really lurches into gear.
>
> What's been done or hasn't been done:
> 1. I don't have the modulator valve connected to any of the vac. lines from
> the engine.
>
> Any thoughts? Next time I play, I'll check TDC and the static timing.
> However, until I get the eng. idling smoothly, I don't think putting a
> timming light on it will do much good.
>
> TIA
>
> John
>
>
> 1
>
> John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net
> Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229
>
> 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V
> 75 Bricklin SV1 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III
>
> Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan
> Bricklin: www.bricklin.org
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