At 09:45 AM 4/25/00 -0700, David Ebel wrote:
>
> Well it looks like there is a serious rear brake issue with 841 -
>and at least someone had been trying to figure it out before me and my dad.
>Here's the low-down in case someone can help.....
>
>Trouble shooting:
>
> There is movement of the rear pads when the tire is off. This
>indicates to us that the cylinders are not froze. It occurred to us that
>perhaps the booster was not working, and thus not supplying enough pressure
>to stop the tires seriously.
David,
You should NOT press the brake pedal if you have the drum off the car. This
can cause the shoes to move to far (nothing to stop them) and the piston to
come out of the cylinder. This usually means a rebuild of cyliner.
>Power booster replaced. The one we got was a little bigger, and a very
>tight fit. It was off a 69-74 javeline which was listed in the cross
>reference data. It might have to be replaced because the rod sticks out to
>far - thus causing a lot of free motion on the pedal before brakes begin
>applying - feels bad.
You got the wrong booster. There are several boosters! YOU NEED THE ONE
WITH THE SHORT ROD! When I got mine, it took a couple of tries to get the
correct one. The AMC part # for the booster is 812-1347, and the AMC part
# for the Master Cylinder is 448-5577
>When we tried to bleed the brake system we found that brake fluid only
>drizzled out the nipple off the rear cylinder... (we also noticed a lot of
>new rear brake work.. Hmmm...).
>
>My guess: Someone noticed there were no rear brakes, and re-did the easy
>things. Now it is either the Proportioning valve, a brake line clog, or
>perhaps the cylinders are messed up. Tonight we plan on tracing the brake
>line for clauges, and then narrowing it down to the proportioning valve. If
>it is that - what is involved? How much does one cost? Do they have to be
>adjusted? I really want to drive 841 soon! Thanks for your help!
Dave, as you point out it can be several things, and one you didn't mention.
1. Pull the main line that goes to the back of the car, from the
porportioning
valve. This is the line that fits by its self on the rear of the valve.
You will see it go down under the body. Then disconnect it from the dist.
block on the rear end. Try to blow compressed air through the line.
2. If that works, you will need to pull one line at a time from the wheel
cylinders and try to blow air through them.
3. If that all works, then your problem is either at the master cylinder,
or the porportioning valve.
You might want to try disconnecting the 2 lines (1 at a time) from the
master cyl. to the valve and pressing the brake pedal. Do you get a
lot of fluid out. One lines doesn't produce a lot of fluid then I'd
guess that the seal on the MC. has gone and you need to replace it.
If both lines produce good fluid flows, then you may have to shotgun
the valve. This has an AMC part # of 321-1628. Last time I talked to
Terry about them, he had them.
Hope this helps. Let us know what you find.
John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net
Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229
48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V
75 Bricklin SV1 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III
Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan
Bricklin: www.bricklin.org
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