PS,
I am still committed to using the minimum amount of glue when
reinstalling the body panels. My preference is to use the aircraft
equivalent of "rivnuts" in the frame and stainless steel aircraft type
locking panel clips inset flush into the fiberglass of the panel. I
want evey panel I can arrange removeable without having to use a heat
gun and a chisel. I will use sealant along the edges and seams, but not
in a way that bonds the panels to the frame. Underneath the panels
there will be sound deadening / anti-vibration material. NASCAR racers
use a similar arrangement with their aluminum body panels and some
vintage sports / racing cars have also used this approach. I think it
will look very cool. Still want to install moon roof panels at top of
doors if I can find suitable glass and mechanism.
Have given up on the carbon fiber body panel surfacing idea. After
removing the paint and acrylic from the panels, the cracking is mainly
in the acrylic layer. The underlying fiberglass is in very good shape
except for the hood which has suffered from too high engine compartment
temps and warped badly. Curling headlight covers are being replaced
with alunimum plates. Headlight vacuum actuators are out. Electric
gear motor that actuates both headlamps simultaneously with shaft and
bellcrank is in.
Re turbo 360, I'm thinking along the line of twin Garrett VNT25 turbos.
Probably isn,t enough room to use headers, so will the stock manifold
work ok or should I look for the high flow cast iron manifold
(increasingly hard to find)? Any thoughts on this type of conversion?
Where the hell would I put the intercoolers? Maybe in the space in
front of the radiator?
My son the mechanic is eager to drive #678 in the Woodward Cruise in
Detroit ( classic cars cruise Woodward Avenue and show off their stuff )
so we have renewed determination to get it done.
George Schiro
|