With the headliner panel removed, you will see wires. Some will
probably
>be hot. Others will be ground wires. On 1758, there is a wire
that
>concerns me. It is very old, and the insulation is chipping away
to the
>point where the bare wire is partially exposed. Unfortunatley,
some of
>this is happening between the roof T-section and the birdcage,
where you
>cannot see. Though I carefully tested to make sure this wire
wasn't
>going to short out and result in Fried Brick, I still am concerned.
This
>wire is coming from the center hole approximately in line with the
air
>cylinders. There are two ground connections that are secured where
the
>door adjustment bolts are in the T-section. If I disconnect them,
will I
>still have functional tail lights and brake lights?
=======
Yes, but you may not be able to activate the door solenoids though
as this is the ground return wire.
=======
Furthermore, if the
>wire in question is indeed hot and for some reason hasnt shorted
yet, I
>do not know if disconnecting the ground connections will help. The
wire
>could very well still have current in it, and upon contact with the
>birdcage, could short out and thus defeat the purpose of
disconnecting
>the ground wires.
=======
There should be (4) wires exiting this hole. (2) brown wires that
each junction with an orange one and the (2) for the dome light. The
brown / orange wires are the door solenoid power wires and are hot
only when the door switches are used to open a door. If one should
short while trying to open a door, it's possible that a fire could
ensue before you could manually raise it and put it out.
=======
It is impossible to wrap the wire with tape since i
>cannot get to the area that concerns me.
=======
Disconnect it from the door solenoid and pull it back through the
hole with a string attached to it. Repair / replace, slide a piece
of gas line tubing over it long enough to go from the connector to
the grommet exit hole to the door for protection, and pull it back
through with the string. I recommend you do this to both wires.
=======
>And lastly, for those who are upgrading to air doors from
hydraulics, and
>are removing the four large solenoids in the control box, beware!
Before
>the mishap with the air compressor as described in The Brickline,
April
>1998-Almost a Catastrophe, I removed all the wires from each of the
four
>solenoids, cutting off the metal connectors as I went so a stray
wire
>would not touch ground and short.
=======
Not to put too fine a point on it, anyone who doesn't disconnect the
power before attempting electrical work is an accident waiting to
happen.
=======
One bolt on the 3rd solenoid down was
>stripped and had to be forcibly removed with a hammer and chisel.
As I
>was working there in the control box, a momentary short occurred
while
>removing a solenoid bolt. I stopped what I was doing and looked
for any
>wires that were still connected to the solenoids that I might have
>missed. there were none. The only possible electrical connection
to the
>solenoids would have been the metal plate they are mounted on,
which
>would most likely be ground and not hot. I know I was not touching
a hot
>wire that I had cut, but my wrench connected two metal points that
made
>the short appear again. After looking a second time, I could not
find a
>cause.
=======
Obviously, you missed one. BTW, why didn't you just remove the
entire assembly, plate and all, as it's not needed with air doors?
=======
I found a safer way to remove the hydraulic junk, and can't help
>but be curoius as to the presence of a "hidden" electrical
connection
>there. If you're removing the solenoids, disconnect the battery!
=======
If you're doing any electrical work that can cause a
short............disconnect the battery.
GM
>Riley Marquis III
>VIN 1758
>
>
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