>Ok,
> Here is where I stand on the passenger side window. When I
>purchased the Bricklin, the passenger side window was non-existent and
a
>piece of plexiglas or lexan or something pastic was in it's place. The
>window regulator was there, but the channel that rides in the wheels
was
>not. I purchased the regulator channel, "new" window holder channel
>with cork and a new? window. In an attempt to put the window in the
>car. I had the window channel welded to the regulator slide channel by
>a friend's professional shop (looks good).
I'm with you so far -- did you have it welded side by side or on top of
the regulator channel. On top makes it much easier to put into the door
but makes it ride about 1.5" higher when down all the way.
> I put the system into the door, (Are there any hints as to how
>to get more working room in the door?) I got the window positioned in
>the door and in the channel and currently have it rolled all the way
up.
>However, when I roll the window down, the glass does not stay with the
>channel. My questions are:
>
>1) Do you glue the window into the channel (cork insert) while the
>arrangement is in the door or out of the door?
That's just it -- I didn't glue the window at all. It is installed into
the channels (both because at this point they are welded together)
outside the door. You just need to have the rear edge of the regulator
channel one inch beyond the beginning of the gradual curve towards the
back of the glass. In other words, there is an obvious straight edge
that the channel goes on -- that straight edge goes up in the front and
the back. The regulator channel has to be about one inch after it
starts the rise towards the rear (this is critical).
>2) If you are to glue it in the door, how do you get your hands
>into the door to place the glue?
I would find it very difficult indeed to try to glue it in the door and
I don't see what advantage it would be.
>3) How hard is it to remove the regulator to "tune it up" and what is
recommended there.
That's very easy -- I did it about eight times in the last two weeks.
Pull off the window crank, the plastic cover on the door release and the
interior door panel. Have the door open and put the crank on the
regulator and roll the window almost closed. Loosen and take out the 4
7/16 bolts and the 2 5/16 bolts. Pull the regulator out of the access
hole, cranking it as necessary to make everything fit. Normally the
device that the 5/16 bolts are on comes out with the regulator. Clean,
grease and oil as necessary. Some say that the nylon wheels should be
made smaller to go in easier, but I couldn't even get them to roll
freely. I think the issue is plenty of white grease in the channel and
silicone grease in the rear of the window (whisker?) channel (this is
the channel in the door that the window slides up against).
>4) Has anyone sucessfully installed power windows?
>
>5) Door latch solenoids: All I have is the interoir handle. All
>other latch equiptment is gone. The latches, solenoid, and latch plate
>don't exist. I need to know what I need to buy and how it works. Do
>the solenoids actuate both electronically and via the manual unlatch.
>Does the door handle send a signal that can be used to open the door?
It might be easier to get the Tanner air latch conversion. No, they do
not work as you suggest. They operate more like the rear hatch release
with the key or the interior cable work. The so9lenoids only operate
with the open switch thrown. The latch device manually does the same
thing as the solenoid without doing anything electrical.
>
> I intend on having Terry fix the doors, whatever window problems
>I have etc... but I need to be able to roll the window down before
that
>time.
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: K M [SMTP:symbiotic@hotmail.com]
>> Sent: Tuesday, March 31, 1998 1:52 PM
>> To: Bricklin@autox.team.net
>> Subject: Finally got my window to work -- for free
>>
>> I had a very pleasant experience at National Glass on South Van Ness
>> in
>> San Francisco. I was having considerable problems using the "new"
>> Tanner window system that consists of a channel, some cork and felt,
>> and
>> some glue. I glued it, installed it, and it pulled out of the new
>> channel. I reglued it and the same thing happened. I redid it with
>> RTV
>> silicone with the same result. I went to the glass shop and the guy
>> looked at everything, cut the old stuff off the window (this had
>> remained glued all along), put new felt-cork (I don't know why it's
>> called this because it seems more like a rubber compound) in the
>> channel, said that it was too loose and should not have to be glued,
>> doubled up on the cork stuff, got out a big mallet and, wham, wham,
>> put
>> that window in its place. The biggest surprise was that he didn't
>> want
>> me to pay anything for the work (I gave the guy 9 dollars anyway).
So
>>
>> far, it seems fine. I wanted to cant the window vis a vis the
channel
>>
>> to make the bend a little more gradual but we didn't do it that time
>> (Tanner's instructions don't mention this). Anyway, I now know the
>> windows fairly well so if anyone has any questions, write away (I
know
>>
>> the air door system too). KIm
>
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