-----Original Message-----
>I need a few parts for VIN 1758...
>
>1: an electronic control module for the tachometer compatible with an AMC
>Gremlin
>The tach reads too high, and this part will also make the redline work
>
>2: I think I need a U joint for the FMX trans. After a drive I put it up
to
>park and I hear this klunking sound...the trans seems to otherwise be
working
>properly.
You are probably right. Just grab the driveshaft and try and twist it with
the car in park and emergency brakes on. If you can move it at all then you
got a problem.
>
>3: In volume 4 number 2 of the brickline for 1979, there is an ad for a
power
>window kit, along with hub caps, an electric air compressor with guage, and
>carpet sets. The ad says "make checks payable to Myles F. Connoly, Jr."
How
>can I get in touch with him so I can order these parts?
I doubt he's still around. Terry Tanner (BPS) used to have hubcaps and he
should have a suitable compressor. I doubt there's any power window kit
available.
>
>4: Another ad in the same issue displays a remote control kit for the
doors.
>The name of the company offering the kit is "The magic Shop". I need an
>updated phone number for them so I can get the kit.
I doubt they're still around either.
>
>5: My center console is damaged beyond repair, so I want to order one from
JT
>systems west. Phone #?
Are they still in business? BPS sells the console that JT used to sell.
>
>6: I desparately need the drivers side glass for the door. A used one is
fine
>as long as its in good shape. The streets in our mobile home park in
southern
>CA got flooded this morning, thanks 2 El Nino. Fortunately, the water did
not
>get high enough to go up the driveway. Good thing we have a carport =)
>
>7: I know a guy in aneheim that can custom match paint by computer and put
it
>in a spray can for $25. I am still debating between two colors for above
the
>belt line: Silver (to match my 1986 Dodge Conquest-for sale) and 1996
Corvette
>yellow. I have heard that somebody painted their 74 4 speed silver, and
would
>like to get a photo that would give me an idea as to what a silver Brick
looks
>like. What specifics should I give for the paint so it will shine while
>keeping the fiberglass/acrylic layer intact? I know that before I paint i
>need to apply a water based sealer. what kind? how many coats?
Does this mean you're going to paint it with spray cans? Aren't the
specifics for painting on the web site?
>
>8: I need a check valve for the headlamps. what car is is compatible with?
I imagine a valve from any car with vacuum headlights will work. I assume
it's from a Vette.
>
>I am in the process of developing a high tech security system for the car.
>Right now all I have is a few part names (havent bought em yet) and a
general
>description of what each part does and where it goes. Features include:
>remote arm/disarm with door operation, glass break detector, battery
>disconnect, custom event sounds, security breach/towing alert to owner, Ace
2
>Ignition switch, Global Positioning System, and the infamous CARJACKER
>SUPRISE!!!
>
>By the way, what is the best way to make a replica or the dash without
having
>to make expensive molds? What would happen if I made a plaster based
replica
>of the dash? Bondo, myabe? Or would it be possible to use fiberglass
>without making an expensive mold?
Plaster heats up as it's curing. It may damage the dash. Bondo sounds like
too much work and would probably crack under it's own weight. Assuming
you're willing to make a dash that doesn't look at all like the original,
use wood veneer like doorskins. I've built a dashboard / console this way.
It's easy, cheap and you can krinkle finish, cover with leather, whatever.
And it's light too. Otherwise the fiberglass mold looks like the best way.
>
>I have my resons for replicating the dash. I want to use it to install
custom
>digital guages that will not work with the current dash.
>
>What should I use to glue the rubber seal to the door? its coming loose.
3M weatherstripping adhesive #08011.
>
>
>I need to remove the black paint from the VIN tag that the mechanic put on
>without my permission. what do i use?
Do you know what type of paint?
>
>I was suprised to find that there are no steel beams that run along the
side
>of the car above the belt line on either side of the birdcage. All I have
is
>fiberglass and the interior panel
Not necessary for side impact protection.
>
>has anybody installed an air scoop on their Brick?
Never seen one. You could be the first.
>
>How can I get in touch with Mitch Steinberg, who owned VIN 2219 way back in
>1984? I need to ask him where i can find the upper console that was
installed
>when he bought it.
You might try a web phone directory search. Blaupunkt and Panasonic used to
sell those consoles. I think swap meets would be your best bet.
>
>I also need contact info for Bob Hoffman so I can order the custom exhaust
>system that was installed on VIN 782. The system has quad exhaust on both
>sides, for a total of eight exhaust pipes.
>
>Even in its current state, VIN 1758 attracts plenty of attention.
>
>Any news on the SV2 that is supposed to be released at the turn of the
>century?
Didn't that scheme go belly up?
GM
>
>
>Riley Marquis III
>1975 Bricklin VIN 1758
>Safety Orange
>5772 Garden Grove Blvd #147
>Westminster CA 92683
>714-893-6794
>GodlyKrew@aol.com
>
>
|