Hope this is still timely, I'm on the Digest.
Kevin,
Engine failure is not very common on '85 -up Volkswagens. Generally
speaking, engines usually outlast the car. 250,000+ miles is quite
common. So, given that the rest of the Volkswagen will usually fall
apart before the engine, (PL)16V 1.8s are cheap at wrecking yards. Maybe
$300-$500 for a complete engine is the norm.
A (9A) 2.0 16V is a much better choice, though, if you are going
through the trouble. I seem to have bought a few 2.0 16Vs from around
the country for in the $700 range. Yes, it is a 100% bolt-in swap. With
no changes. Your CIS-E will work fine, but I would get a Techtonics or
Autotech enrichment device if you haven't already. It is literally worth
10 hp all by itself.
BTW, most people who actually *autocross* Volkswagens can be found
at http://www.egroups.com/group/vwautox .
Good Luck.
Abe Potter
Volkswagen Intermountain
Salt Lake City
ES 25 '91 GTI 16V
FSP 23 '81 Scirocco S
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Jun 2000 10:50:52 -0700
From: Kevin McCormick <ktm@unify.com>
Subject: VW GTI 16v engine Help
Hi all,
I know this is marque specific, but thought I'd throw it out there since
there are several that might have knowledge (Per, Vic, Tony, etc.)
My commute 1987 GTI 16v started doing what I believe is a bad rod knock
yesterday (200k miles, I guess it's expected, eh?). Under load it
sounds
worse than a diesel, and with less power. I'm assuming that a rod
bearing
is shot.
So my question are:
1) In a GTI I think you can drop the oil pan and get to the connecting
rods
easily. Is it even reasonable to think that the crank was not damaged
for
my 20 mile drive home, put new bearings in and give it a shot?
2) If I understand it right, you can take a 2.0 16v motor out of a
GTI/Jetta/Passat (9a engine, right?) and use it in place, even with the
KE-Jetronic injection from the 1987, vs the Motronic from the later
ones.
Is this right?
<snip>
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