Robert Glover wrote:
> I just went throught his with my own trailer. I haven't gotten mine hooked
> up yet, because as it was best explained to me, you probably want its own
> battery. Get a Deep Cycle (RV style) battery, at least 450 cranking amps
> (according to the manual of my Superwinch S4500 anyway). BUT, then you need
> a way to mount it on or to the trailer. That's what I'm waiting on.
Couple of bolts through the mounting plate into the frame. Easy.
>
> The biggest problem with trying to use the truck battery is the wiring. The
> cables that came with my winch are HUGE, probably close to 1/2" in diameter.
The S45000 is a very heavy duty unit, that's why you have #4 wire
leads. Maybe more than you need. I use a S2000 from Superwinch, and it
pulls my Neon up to a 44" hieght. (Designed for a 2000 lb pull) It has
more like 16 guage wire, but when I tried to exceed the 6' of wire that
came with it, I lost a great deal of power. I ended up running #4
welding wire from the bus batteries to another standard battery near the
winch, wiring it in series. I hooked teh winch directly to this
battery. Because I am a little under-designed on the winch size, it
helps to run the bus engine too.
Remember, the load rating of the winch does not need to match the wieght
of the load. At a 40 percent grade, which is *really* steep for a
trailer, use 60 percent of the load to arrive at the desired load rating
you need. (2,000 lb car x .6 = 1200 lb winch) If you have a typical
trailer with mybe a 10" to 12" lift, you should be able to use 40
percent. I would try returing it for a smaller winch, and running right
from a thinner lead from your truck bettery. If the load isn't too
great, and the incline not too steep, you might get away with it.
Otherwise, install a battery right next to it, and charge the battery
before every trip with jumpers.
PLW
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