Ive had good luck on all my Toyotas, but removing the compressor and
draining the oil from it in the sink...thats 90% of the oil, along with the
replaced evaporator can (or is that a condensor..shit..I dunno).
Been running great for 2 years on all 3 cars.
-----Original Message-----
From: Chuck Brazeau [mailto:cbrazeau@amaonline.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 22, 1999 10:40 AM
To: Lindsay Wilson; autox@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Air conditioning?
Lindsay,
I ran into this problem at the end of summer last year with my '90 LX 5.0
(also ESP). I tried draining out the old R12 by letting it leak out the
schrader valve (don't tell the EPA!), and just adding the new R134a stuff
from a kit (adapters, 3 cans of R134a, and 1 can of oil), but I found out
that the two types of freon are NOT compatible! It ended up locking up my
AC compressor. I then discovered that in order to convert to the newer
freon, you must have the old R12 COMPLETELY evacuated from your system.
This means pulling it to a zero vacuum to get out all of the old freon and
oils (professionally done). Then you can get the $30 kit from the parts
store to convert and fill the dry system.
I haven't had the money to replace my AC compressor yet (or the leaky line
that caused it to need more freon in the first place), but I'm gonna have
to - It's getting HOT in Texas!!! :-)
Hope this helps!
SeeYa!
CB
http://www.chuckbrazeau.com/
----- Original Message -----
From: Lindsay Wilson <lwilson1@ford.com>
To: <autox@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 22, 1999 10:21 AM
Subject: Air conditioning?
Advice on AC needed;
I am working on an ESP project (1989 Ford Mustang LX 5.0)
and now that the weather has gotten warm I find the AC is not
working. I suspect that the coolant has all leaked out. I know
I will need to update to the new type of coolant. Can I do this
myself with a kit from a auto parts store, or should I take it to
a professional (like a dealer?)
Of course I could just remove the AC system, but I have to drive
this car every day. :)
Thanks,
Lindsay
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