You wrote:
>3. What would the proper torque for a 13/16" lug nut be? TireRack's>
>chart
>only goes up to something like 5/8" or maybe 11/16">
I'd guess your 13/16" wrench size is actually a 12mm or 7/16" thread size.
Nuts and studs are labeled by the thread diameter and pitch, not the wrench
size. A 5/8" lug nut would probably be found on a Freightliner or John
Deere, but not a ZX2!
****************
That makes more sense measuring the thread and stud size to determine proper
torque. They could make that clearer on the TireRack and RSR racing sites:
http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/torque.htm
http://www.rsracing.com/wheelstuff.html
Thanks all.
>From: "Crossett, Mac A" <Mac.Crossett@Wichita.BOEING.com>
>To: team net <autox@autox.team.net>, "'Robert & Katherine Seamon'"
><forestg@ionet.net>
>CC: Wichita SCCA list <wichita-scca@autox.team.net>
>Subject: RE: lug nut torqueing(again probably)
>Date: Tue, 8 Jun 1999 10:01:10 -0500
>
> > Here are some lug nut torqueing questions:
> > 1. Why do you apply more torque to larger nut sizes? I would think
> > smaller
> > nuts need more oomph to hold a wheel on.
> >
>The outside nut measurement is irrelevant, since your applying torque (in
>foot-pounds), and not force (in pounds) to the nut. In other words, if you
>torque them to 100ft-lbs, and you use a 24" lugnut, you apply 100lbs of
>force on the nut, but if you use a 2" nut, you apply 1200lbs of force to
>it.
>However, since the thread size is the same, the torque applied at the
>thread
>diameter (12mm in my case) remains the same, so they see 2540lbs of force
>in
>either case. So the smaller nut get more 'oomph'(force) applied to it, but
>the threads inside will still see the same amount of tension, which is the
>important part.
>
>The outer size doesn't do anything other than being a stronger design due
>to
>the increased material and lower force at the facets of the nut. And it's
>doubtful that a larger nut will have more contact with the seat on the
>wheel
>than a smaller nut. Unless you change stud sizes, the manufacturer's
>torque
>spec will be fine. I torque mine to the lower end of the spec
>(75-85ft-lbs)
>for easier removal and less strain on the studs. Overtorquing is bad.
>(like
>crossing the streams!)
>
>Mainly, you are pre-loading the lug nuts so the won't work their way loose.
>There is also some benefit to pre-loading the studs from a fatigue
>standpoint.
>
> > 2. Does 13/16" sound like a correct size for a Ford lugnut? It seems
>to
> > fit perfectly on my ZX2, but there is another size on my 3 way that
>seems
> > to
> > at least fit on the nuts well enough to spin them quickly.
>Unfortunately
> > none of the markings, if there were any, on my 3 way spinner lug nut
> > wrench
> > are legible.
>It's probably 13/16" or 21mm wrench size, which are near enough to be the
>same. I use 21mm on my street rims, but have a 19mm nut on the race rims
>because of the clearance with the well that the nut sits in.
>
> > 3. What would the proper torque for a 13/16" lug nut be? TireRack's
> > chart
> > only goes up to something like 5/8" or maybe 11/16"
> >
>I'd guess your 13/16" wrench size is actually a 12mm or 7/16" thread size.
>Nuts and studs are labeled by the thread diameter and pitch, not the wrench
>size. A 5/8" lug nut would probably be found on a Freightliner or John
>Deere, but not a ZX2!
>
> > Bonus question:
> > 4. Is lugnut one word or two?
> >
>2, according to the American Heritage dictionary...
>
>
> > Mac Crossett <DELTA-V>
> > 1996 Eagle Talon TSi AWD #49ESP
> > What if the universe uses a Base2 numbering system...
> > ...Does the world end on Dec 31, 2048???
>
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