Thought I'd throw in my two cents.
The last time I painted a car I used a very long stiff
sanding block. About 12 inches long. I was told that
it helped even out your sanding on big areas like a
hood or roof. I liked it.
Jason
--- Theo Smit <theo.smit@dynastream.com> wrote:
> Make sure you use a hard rubber sanding block. 320
> grit silicon carbide
> wet-or-dry paper is going to remove the paint pretty
> quickly, and using
> the block will help make sure you remove the high
> spots first, anyway.
>
> Red paint should have a very high pigment content,
> but even so it will
> be necessary to do two or three wet coats to cover
> the color underneath.
> If you didn't do a full primer coat underneath then
> it will take a
> couple more coats to really get even coloring.
>
> Theo
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-tigers@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-tigers@autox.team.net]On
> Behalf Of DrMayf
> Sent: July 11, 2003 7:45 AM
> To: land-speed@autox.team.net;
> tigers@autox.team.net; Alpine Mailing
> List
> Subject: New RED Paint....
>
>
> Well, yesterday, I sprayed paint on the SUnbeam
> shell. Awful results, in
> my
> opinion. So this morning I am going to wet sand the
> entire car to remove
> the
> nasties. Almost seems like this paint did not have
> enough pigment in it
> and
> is almost translucent. The grabber blue I sprayed in
> the cockpit seemed
> to
> be great, even though I missed a few spots. The car
> is naturally pitted
> in
> many places and I am ok with that but the other
> ...ugh. Color is ok,
> though.
>
> I have some 300 grit or is this too coarse?
>
> mayf
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