This will work for any car.
When re-installing TR gearboxes, a means of supporting the 'box without
letting the input shaft take the load is required. I made up four steel
5/16" diameter pins, 2.5" long, threaded 5/16"x24 UNF at one end and
heavily chamfered at the other. Two of these I threaded into the
existing stud holes in the top of the engine block (without locknuts)
and the other two I bolted to the lower corners of the engine back
plate, using a thin locknut on the gearbox side. Finger tightening is
all that is required. (The original studs could be used at the top but
these are threaded at both ends and tend to machine away material from
the bell housing during installation - the plain diameter of the pins
prevents this).
The gearbox can now be lifted into place and lined up with the pins
before the input shaft comes into contact with the clutch or flywheel.
If the clutch operating arm fouls the driver's side floor, reduce the
length of the lower pins by screwing them further into the back plate.
The pins support the weight of the 'box while it is being maneuvered
around the propshaft and rear mounts and while the input shaft splines
are being aligned with the clutch.
Once the splines are engaged, slide the gearbox forward until it stops
against the lock nuts on the lower pins. Install and loosely tighten
some of the original bellhousing-to-backplate fasteners, then slacken
the locknuts and withdraw the two lower pins. Slide the gearbox fully
home, replace the two upper pins with the correct studs and install all
of the original fasteners.
CAUTION : DO NOT try to tighten any of the
bellhousing-to-backplatefasteners until the lock nuts have been removed
from the lower pins. Failure to observe this precaution may result in a
cracked bell housing flange.
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