Same problem -- along the same lines. The only place my Tiger's metalwork
has been compromised is where the battery is installed. The moisture and
acids took their toll -- to a small extent. Has anyone got any experience
with this? It's part of "next year's " piece of my restoration plan --
gotta be taken care of before the paint shop.
Thanks,
Tony
----- Original Message -----
From: "jumpinjan" <jservaites@woh.rr.com>
To: "Dan Eiland" <deiland1@elp.rr.com>
Cc: "Tiger List" <tigers@autox.team.net>; "Alpine List"
<alpines@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 22, 2002 8:23 PM
Subject: Re: Using POR-15
Dan,
It sounds like you're planning to put a lot of man-hours in the
restoration and you said that this is your first attempt at a
restoration. I'm a little confused as to why you are applying POR-15
products. POR-15 is not that good a product to keep rust away and it's
pretty expensive. I highly recommend that you apply only epoxy primer on
all the bare metal areas. As a top coat, I recommend a single stage
urethane. When you replace the rusted out sheet metal, replace it with
the same gauge metal (usually 20 gauge). You want to treat the rusty
areas with a rust converter like Picklex 20
(http://www.autobodystore.com/r-o-n.htm). The rest of the clean metal
should be treated with a metal conditioner. For an epoxy, to fill the
rust pin holes, I use a high quality epoxy called Marine-Tex. It is very
strong and sands nice. My final comment is why didn't you have the body
dipped? The price may seem expensive, but it is well worth it. It hard
to stop the rust if one doesn't dip the body.
Jan
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