Steve, Tom Hall years ago, did a conversion, which put the heater valve
in the plenum area, where the heater core is.
I followed this idea, and punched a new hole next to the hose on the
right side, and ran both hoses parallel to each other, to the
connections at the manifold, and water pump.
Hoses don't cross over the engine.
This put the heater valve out of sight, allowed a new modern valve,
Honda in my case, and made the under hood look cleaner.
I also used a valve, available from NAPA, that replaced the 90 degree
elbow in the manifold, which allows me to stop the water flow, but I
have not needed it with the modern Honda valve. My old 90 degree elbow
was old and unsightly, and in need of replacement anyway.
There is a tech tip on the fresh air vents, but you have to drill out
the rivets for the plastic vent boxes to get the boxes out of the car.
They are just under the grills for the intake for the vents.
If you do this, you might as well go with Rick's repair kit for the
vents, while they are out. His kit has instructions for all of this.
The kit makes the vents shut with Authority.
Larry
ssage@socal.rr.com wrote:
>
> I'm bored. Nothing has broken or gone wrong with the Tiger lately (I am
> being careful not to say or think this anywhere near the car!). To
> unbore myself, I'd like to solve a persistent aggravation....leaky
> passenger compartment fresh air vents. The felt seals on both sides
> (driver and passenger) have come loose and one is even hanging on the
> vent open/close rods. Not very pretty, plus, with the vents closed, you
> get some leakage when driving (cold in winter/hot in summer). The flaps
> seem to open and close properly, but are not making a complete seal to
> shut off air when closed. How the heck do you get those boxes off to
> work on them? Has anyone posted a tech tip on this to any of the usual
> sources?
>
> Also, has anyone come up with a definitive "fix" for the late model
> heater valves? Opening or closing it doesn't make much difference on hot
> air to the footwell (not good in the summer), so I use a manual on/off
> valve I got from a hardware/plumbing shop to definitely stop the water
> leaking by the stock valve. I have to get out of the car and open the
> hood and open/close that valve every time to do this, though, so it
> would be neat to have a stock heater valve that works. Through the years
> I've had a couple valves that worked perfectly, but more that "leaked
> by" like this one. Any ideas out there?
>
> Thanks
> Steve Sage
> 1967 Tiger MK1A
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