Thanks, guys. I suppose I'll take Paul's advice and send both down to our
local auto electric shop here (suburban Philadelphia) and see what they can
do with them. Maybe with two they can produce at least ONE working one?
(ha! ..gotta love Lucas..)
If that doesn't work I'll have to choose between keeping some semblance of
originality by installing a Lucas/MGB unit (while risking the same parts
availability problems I have now sometime down the road..) or else going
with the more or less bullet-proof GM unit and giving up on all originality
altogether! Sigh. If I do do the conversion, where's the best tip sheet?
Thanks for the tips, guys!!
(Nobody answered my second question though.. on the PCV valve.. does anyone
know?)
Regards,
Kevin
----Original Message Follows----
From: servaij@cris.com
To: Kevin McLemore <kmclemore@hotmail.com>
CC: alpines@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Questions on Alpine Alternator Repairs and PCV Parts
Kevin,
That original series V Lucas alternator is getting harder and more
expensive to repair. I recommend the later Lucas that was used in the
later MGB (about $90 rebuilt). It's a one wire, higher amperage, readily
rebuildable and it's retro-fitable to the engine mounts. I think a Motion
Bearing Co. can match up the bearing replacements in your original
alternator, I don't think they are special?
Jan
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----Original Message Follows----
From: palmjeld@mit.midco.net
To: Kevin McLemore <kmclemore@hotmail.com>
CC: alpines@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Questions on Alpine Alternator Repairs and PCV Parts
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 17:35:34 -0600
Hi all:
I use a "standard" GM single wire alternator. The unit can be found in a
variety of amperage outputs - 63, 72, 85, etc. As far as I can tell, the
outer dimensions of any of those possiblities is the same. I am able to use
the GM with no bracket modifications to the standard Sunbeam bracket by the
use of a DOUBLE pulley with the alternator. I have used the GM alternator
successfully for many years and have been well satisfied.
Kevin: If you have an automotive electric repair shop in your area they can
very likely repair both of your units without a lot of expense. If we have
such a shop here in Mitchll, SD, surely you must have one in your area.
my 2 pennies worth
Paul
Quoting Kevin McLemore <kmclemore@hotmail.com>:
OK, OK, so I'm an originality junkie, but I'd like to get my old Series V
alternator working again - I'm reluctant to resort to the one-wire GM
because I really do want to preserve the car "as manufactured" if I can, but
I may have no choice if I can't get this sorted.
I have two alternators - #1 has bad bearings and 'howls' (but charges really
great!) and #2 works nicely but has *very* low output (with lights and
blower on and the engine at full revs it barely keeps the AMPS needle
vertical - at anything less it's a dead loss.)
So.. the questions are:
1) Does anybody have a source or part number for the alternator bearings(for
unit #1) so I can just replace them? I am not sure run-of-the-mill bearings
from my local Bearing Supply house will do, as I recall the difference being
the heat/speed of an alternator requires more 'robust' bearings?
2) If the output is low (on unit #2), could it just be the diodes and can I
then just switch the diode plates?
3) Given that the above two are unresolvable, has anybody ever published a
definitive "Replace your F*&(!%G Lousy Lucas 'Prince Of Darkness' Alpine
Alternator with this Nifty GM One-wire" article, with the correct part
number of GM alternator and measured drawings of new brackets (if needed)?
(I've seen several articles with wiring and such for this conversion, but
never a mention of which *SPECIFIC* GM alternator fits our cars best, nor
how to bracket it up.)
Oh, and one other question - has anyone ever found a viable replacement for
the original PCV valve as found on the Stromberg CD equipped cars? (I'm
referring to the unobtainium special black valve found on the intake
manifold, not the unobtainium 'flame trap' canister on the oil fill neck.)
Thanks!
-Kevin McLemore
1967 Alpine Series V, B395015623
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