Gordon:
This has come up several times on the list, and I think the only
permanent method of repair is to have the shaft holes drilled and bushed
back to standard. Others on the list might know of some things you can
do to determine if this is, in fact, your problem (plug with thick
grease, etc.).
Ron Tebo
Gordon Wilson wrote:
>
> Ron,
>
> Thanks for the information. In fact, I do have leaky throttle shafts, but
> didnt think that would have such a large impact once I move past the idle
> stage? Do you have any thoughts on how I may go about getting those
> throttle shafts repaired or is repair by simple replacement?
>
> Cheers.
>
> Gordon
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ron Tebo" <tebomr@cadvision.com>
> To: "Gordon Wilson" <gordonhighlands@hotmail.com>
> Sent: Friday, October 26, 2001 7:09 AM
> Subject: Re: Timing & Carb Setup Headache
>
> > Gordon:
> >
> > If you are having difficulty, I think it may be because you may have
> > non-standard or non- working parts (assuming valve adjustment is
> > correct, points adjusted first, correct jets in clean carbs and no
> > leaking throttle shafts). Have you checked to make sure that the vacuum
> > and centrifugal advance is working and is actually the correct one for
> > your car? (I had to install another set of counterweights in my dist.
> > before I could set timing properly!) See my description below.
> >
> > Ron Tebo - Series I - B9000627
> >
> > "....I was just trying to set my timing and ran into a problem. When the
> > > timing was set at ten degrees BTDC (600-800 RPM)it only approached 20
> > > degrees BTDC at 2500 RPM. When set at 30 degrees BTDC at 2500, pinging
> > > was noticed at idle. (Vacuum line removed and plugged off). I concluded
> > > that the centrifugal advance was rusted and/or not moving properly, so I
> > > removed the distributor, and checked. Found nothing wrong except a
> > > little slop in shaft bearing. After cleaning and lube, replaced and set
> > > the dist. with the engine on TDC and the points just opening and Vernier
> > > adjustment with just the first division. Tried again and got essentially
> > > the same result.
> > >
> > > I was trying to set timing according to what Dick Trenk had recommended
> > > some time ago, which was to set at 36 degrees BTDC at 2500 RPM and let
> > > the idle timing fall where it may. Jarrid corrected him and said that
> > > this assumed that all alpines used 13 degree cent. advances (capable of
> > > 26 degree advance, with 10+26=36) and mentioned that some had 11 degree
> > > and this was identified on the counterweight assembly with the stamped
> > > nos. "11" or "13". When I checked mine on this first disassembly, it was
> > > stamped 10 degrees (which was why I was trying to set at 30 degrees
> > > max). Other than this marking, the rest of the dist. looks like stock
> > > Lucas Alpine...."
> >
> > Gordon Wilson wrote:
> > >
> > > I can't seem to find a good process for getting the points gap,ignition
> > > timing and carb setup for my Series II. Any good rules of thumb on
> getting
> > > this correct? Especially difficult is the amount of advance/retard and
> how
> > > to get the carb mixture adjustments just right...
> > >
> > > This multivariable problem feels more like differential calculus than
> fine
> > > British motoring!
> > >
> > > Gordon
> > > Charlottesville
> > >
> > > _________________________________________________________________
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