Thanks for the info. You are right I traced the wires from the toggle
switch and it appeared to have a yellow lead from the voltage regulator
going through the switch and then a black or brown wire to the coil ballast.
The strange part of my wiring was that the yellow wire from the Voltage
regulator enters through the firewall near the coil instead of the wire
harness by voltage regulator.
I found that Radio Shack has a wirewond 15 ohm resistor. A question I have
is what watts would be better (5,10,15,or 25). Thank you.
-----Original Message-----
From: ellis838@concentric.net [mailto:ellis838@concentric.net]
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2001 12:59 AM
To: alpines@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Alternator Conversion
John,
I used Toms directions when I put a datsun alternator on my SV. I
scratched my head all of one afternoon trying to figure out which wire
went where and studying a original wiring diagram. My car did not have a
charging indicator light and the under dash wires are a lot of things
none of which are original. What I ended up doing was going to the parts
store and buying a roll of wire and a little red light assembly. The
light snapped into the cigarette lighter hole like it was made for it. I
then followed Toms instructions and wired it up just as he shows, using
my new roll of wire and light and disconnected the original wires to the
alternator [generator in your case] and regulator. There were a bunch of
wires that use to do something, I just taped them up. When I had it all
wired up I crossed my fingers and turned the key. Nothing happened the
light did not come on and when I tried to start it the starter did not
turn. Well I took it all back apart and checked it then put it all back
together and still nothing. The battery was dead... off to the parts
store and of course they told me I needed a new one. Put the new battery
in and it worked just as described, this is when I decided that Tom must
be a genius. A forty dollar alternator, a few feet of wire, a light it
all bolted on it worked wow.
I would figure out what your kill switch toggle is doing, most likely
it supplies voltage to the coil, if that is the case I would rewire it
to the ignition switch make sure it is a contact that is only hot with
the key on. Then use new wires and follow Tom the geniuses wiring
diagram and your dead battery problems are over. Jim [who just
discovered that you cannot get your battery out after you put a roll bar
in!]
John Stanco wrote:
>Hi Lou, Tom and the alpine community,
>
>I am in the process of replacing my generator with an alternator. Lou the
>bracket you made for me fit fine. It is all bolted up except for the
>adjusting nut on top. Tomorrow I will pick a correct threaded bolt for it.
>All the wiring was straight forward until I went under the dash to connect
>the "R" terminal or in my case the "S" sensing connection. My Series II
>alpine looked like it had a charge indicating lamp until I noticed it was
>not connected.(no wonder why it never worked!) The previous owner spliced
>in a toggle switch in its place ( I think). There is a yellow wire and
what
>seems to be a black wire to the toggle switch. The car was set up so you
>could not start or shut down the car with out the toggle switch. My
dilemma
>is where do I connect the "R" terminal wire per Tom's Conversion article.
>And since the car seems to have had a charge indicator, will I need to wire
>in a heavy duty 15 ohm resistor per the article? I would like to also have
>the indicator lamp working, does anybody have a indicator bulb holder? Is
>there a place where I can view a wiring diagram to properly connect the
>ignition wires? Does anyone have a digital picture of a series II dash, I
>would like to make sure all of the gauges are in the right place?
>
>Thanks in advance for your input.
>
>John
>
>.
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