Chris,
I hate to say this, but I wouldnt event rotate the engine till
I knew what was what. I figure that just turning the engine could
break a tooth on the cam, which would be one of the worst things
to happen being cams (for the 1725) have become rather rare.
Welding up the oil tube for the timing chain is a double edged sword.
It will get you more oil for cooling the bearings, but will hasten the
wear on the timing chain. If you choose the latter, be prepared
to perform more maintainance.
Jarrid
Chris Stephenson wrote:
> Thanks Jarrid.
>
> So, I guess the way to check this is to turn the engine a few rotations and
> watch the relationship between the TDC and rotor position. Is this right?
> Also, I seem to remember an something about distributors and the oil pump
> shaft length. Are there any issues here?
>
> A little more about my engine. It is bored to either .050 or .060 - I need
> to go back and check which. And, I have duel 40DCOE's and the remanufactured
> manifold I plan to fit. The builder also welded the splash hole between the
> block and the timing gear. He has a reason for this that sounded good at the
> time.
>
> Chris Stephenson
> cs@tscg.net
> (404) 915-7669
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-alpines@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-alpines@autox.team.net]On
> Behalf Of Jarrid Gross
> Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2001 11:46 AM
> To: Chris Stephenson
> Cc: Alpines
> Subject: Re: 1592 w/1725 Head
>
> Chris,
>
> With the exception of very late SV heads, the castings
> on 1592 and 1725s are the same.
>
> There were various valve sizes used, for which I
> would recommend using the headwith the biggest valves.
> This would always be the 1725.
>
> As to your engine, if the builder is not savvy in rootes engines,
> you might consider pulling the sump and oil pump to verify
> what exactly is in there.
>
> Here why...
>
> Early cam shafts have a different number of pump drive gear teeth.
>
> You can take a 3 main cam and 3 main pump,
> or a 5 main cam and a 5 main pump, or the appropriate pump drive gear
> for the cam that is installed in your engine.
> You have to count the teeth on each.
>
> I have heard of more than one case where botgh gears are damaged
> by this exact situation.
>
> BTW even with the difference in teeth, the engine will still turn,
> as will the distrubutor (at 12/13 speed if memory serves).
>
> Jarrid Gross
>
> Chris Stephenson wrote:
>
> > Ok group,
> >
> > It has been a while since I have worked on (or driven) any of my Sunbeams.
> > But now, I have contracted to purchase the Series III shell from Tiger
> Auto
> > and I need some advice.
> >
> > I have a 1592 engine that was professionally build. My intent was to use
> > that engine in my Series III GT rally car - the one I was building to run
> > the La Carrera Pan America. Well those plans are shelved indefinitely.
> Now,
> > I want to use that engine in the Series III I just purchased. My dilemma
> is
> > that I took a bunch of parts to the engine builder (at his request both
> 1592
> > and 1725) and he used the 1725 head on the 1592 block. I do not know which
> > cam he used. I also do not know which oil pump he used - I think he
> sourced
> > a new 1725 one. I know I can drop the sump to check on the oil pump, but
> how
> > can I tell if everything will work in unison? This engine was completed
> > several years ago, so I doubt the builder will remember. Also, we had a
> > little falling-out because he was not doing the quality of work I expected
> > on the body. So, I have this engine which is built for endurance - if
> > everything was put together right. Any advice?
> >
> > Chris Stephenson
> > cs@tscg.net
> > (404) 915-7669
> >
> > Series III - Rust Bucket
> > Series III GT
> > Series III - Under Contract
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