Pasanville@aol.com wrote:
>
> Listers,
> Does anyone have a few thoughts on this? I was running my 1725 which actually
> seemed to be running fairly well, when I started pulling spark plug wires one
> at a time. You know, to see if all cylinders are firing. When I removed the
> last ones 3 then 4 the engine sounded and ran no different. When I removed 1
> then 2, the engine sputtered and quit. I just adjusted the valves, so unless
> I did not do them properly, they should not be the problem. Would out of
> synch carbs effect it this way?
> Also, Is there a way I can synch them with common tools?
I think so. You should remove the air cleaner(s). Loosen off the link that
locks the throttle shaft of the two carbs together. I use a rubber tube of
about 1/4" ID to sense the airflow. I stick one end in my (more-or-less)
good ear and use the other end to listen to the suck of the air going by the
bottom of each piston (this is an SU I'm talking about, but most others are
similar) I adjust the idle of the carbs until both are sucking equal amounts
of air and the idle rpm is within specs for the build of the engine (more
modded = higher idle). Then I lock down the link between the carbs, making
sure this doesn't change the settings.
On SUs I have been advised to then set the mix, by using the lifting pins or
lifting the pistons with a screwdriver and then adjusting. Others have said
to close the butterfly on one carb and set the mix on the other one, then
change carbs and do the opposite one, then set the idles equal. So far, I've
always used the first method and have been happy with the results.
On my Cooper S, I cheat: I have one nice big HIF6 1 3/4" SU, so no balancing
is required. ;)
-Rock
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