Hi Mike:
Like many Alpine owners, I had the same challenge. With the engine out of
the car recently as part of a 5 speed
tranny conversion project, I took the opportunity to replace the rubber seal
located in the well of the timing cover. The seal, and its deterioration,
is the usual cause for the leak you described. The seal is available from SS
and also (I think) Classic Sunbeam. I had a minor leak at this location for
years. I finally replaced the seal. Several hundred miles later, no oil
leak. It's easiest to replace if the engine is out of the car, though also
possible with more hassle if the engine is in place. You must remove the
fan, radiator and anything else that restricts access to the timing chain
cover. The biggest challenge is to remove the nut holding the harmonic
balancer on the crankshaft. You need a 1 & 5/16 deep socket to fit over the
nut. With a long enough breaker bar you can loosen the nut, remove it and
the harmonic balancer. Be careful removing the balancer - replacements are
hard to find - and expensive. When all that is off, then remove the 13
bolts that hold the timing chain cover. You will likely find
the remains of the original rubber seal in the bottom of the cover. Clean
everything thoroughly, lightly oil the new seal, slip it into place in the
well of the cover and reassemble. BTW, you will also need a new timing cover
gasket.
While you have it apart check the timing gears and chain. I'd recommend
changing them if you have lots of miles on the engine.
There is an excellent article on this subject in the Sunbeam Survivor, a
manual of tech tips and articles available through TE/AE. I recommend it to
you. Also, several years ago Ed Esslinger wrote a tech article that
appeared in the Rootes Review, the newsletter for TA/AE. He suggests an
effective, non expensive alternative to upgrade the seal and greatly reduce
the chance of having to replace it again in a couple of years. You may want
to check on this as well.
Correct oil pressure? Depends on the overall condition of your engine.
Generally speaking, if things are in decent condition you should be able to
expect 40/lbs while cruising - about 20/lbs when idling at 1000 rpm. Others
may have better thoughts and ideas about this. There are a number of
variables involved including oil viscosity, bearing wear, oil pressure
relief valve, etc.
Good luck.
from sunny South Dakota
Paul #14649 Toyota 5 speed, GM alternator, Weber 32/36 carb, Pertronix
ignition, American Racing wheels
Dr. Paul Almjeld
Department of Music
Dakota Wesleyan University
Mitchell, SD 57301
palmjeld@dwu.edu
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