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I have a =E2=80=9875 TR6. I just replaced the voltage stabilizer. On the fi=
rst one
I received from Moss ( Made in China), the mounting bracket that=E2=80=99s =
spot
welded on the unit literally fell off. I didn=E2=80=99t want to solder it i=
n place
for fear of damaging the electronics and I felt that using epoxy would not
provide proper ground (the unit is grounded through the gauge.) I called
Moss and they sent me a new one and told me to throw the other away. Their
customer service is good, but too many of their parts are made poorly and
cheaply.
Probing the stabilizer in-place is not easy/nearly impossible. Removing the
speedo is pretty straight forward. I can walk you through it if needed.
Once the speedo is even partially out, using your volt meter probes is
doable. Remember to run a ground wire from the stabilizer body to a known
good ground-I just used the battery. Remember that there are two ground
wires that attach to the long screws and shovels and held on with the thumb
screws. If you=E2=80=99ve removed the gauge, this ground wire is no longer
grounding the stabilizer, so running a direct ground is needed.
The ignition needs to be on. On my car, the dark green wires should display
terminal battery voltage. When you probe the light green wire (I) terminal
your meter should read 10 v. I think you already know this. If the
stabilizer performs as described, it=E2=80=99s doing its job.
If your temp is suddenly higher than normal, and for no apparent reason, I
would clean the temp sending unit and the cable that plugs into it, or it
may be a defective/worn out sending unit. The gas gauge is harder to know
where it was from time to time.
Hope this helps.
Bob Fabie
On Wed, Jun 14, 2023 at 1:42 PM dave northrup <dave@ranteer.com> wrote:
> As a rule of thumb, Moss parts are crap. They only buy the cheapest half
> ass stuff they can find. And if there are issues they tend to ignore
> them. see if you can find a used one from one of the spares houses. If
> you need a referral, I have had very good success with several.
>
>
>
> *From:* 6pack <6pack-bounces@autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Yahoo
> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 14, 2023 10:26 AM
> *To:* 6pack@autox.team.net
> *Subject:* [6pack] Voltage Stabilizer Questions
>
>
>
> Hi there.
>
>
>
> My fuel and temp gauges weren't moving so I put in a new voltage
> stabilizer I had on the shelf from sometime in the past. It came in a blu=
e
> box marked British Spares. The gauges read now, but the readings are very
> high compared to before, so problematic. I laid on my back with the engi=
ne
> running and tried to probe the stabilizer with a multimeter, but didn't g=
et
> anywhere. I can try this again setting myself up better if you can test
> it this way. I understand the stabilizer's function is to reduce battery
> voltage down to 10v for the gauges, so I presume you should see 10V on t=
he
> I side. Masters' electrical book says its not so simple to test
> stabilizers.
>
>
>
> I presume I need to find and install a different stabilizer?
>
>
>
> I've heard there's issues with the solid state stabilizers
> Moss/BPNW.sell. Not sure if Moss has rectified the issue. The Rimmer
> Bros catalog shows one with Caerbont Automotive written on it. Caerbont
> seems to be the manufacturer of Smiths instruments nowadays. Not sure
> which one TRF sells, but they're on backorder there anyway.
>
>
>
> Not fond of working under the dash, but a repeat of a recent job normally
> goes smoother.
>
>
>
> Thank you for your advice,
>
>
>
> Cheers, Bruce Simms 73 TR6
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>
>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
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>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/bobfabie@gmail.com
>
>
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<div dir=3D"auto">I have a =E2=80=9875 TR6. I just replaced the voltage sta=
bilizer. On the first one I received from Moss ( Made in China), the mounti=
ng bracket that=E2=80=99s spot welded on the unit literally fell off. I did=
n=E2=80=99t want to solder it in place for fear of damaging the electronics=
and I felt that using epoxy would not provide proper ground (the unit is g=
rounded through the gauge.) I called Moss and they sent me a new one and to=
ld me to throw the other away. Their customer service is good, but too many=
of their parts are made poorly and cheaply.=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto"><=
br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Probing the stabilizer in-place is not easy/near=
ly impossible. Removing the speedo is pretty straight forward. I can walk y=
ou through it if needed.=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D=
"auto">Once the speedo is even partially out, using your volt meter probes =
is doable. Remember to run a ground wire from the stabilizer body to a know=
n good ground-I just used the battery. Remember that there are two ground w=
ires that attach to the long screws and shovels and held on with the thumb =
screws. If you=E2=80=99ve removed the gauge, this ground wire is no longer =
grounding the stabilizer, so running a direct ground is needed.=C2=A0</div>=
<div dir=3D"auto">The ignition needs to be on. On my car, the dark green wi=
res should display terminal battery voltage. When you probe the light green=
wire (I) terminal your meter should read 10 v. I think you already know th=
is. If the stabilizer performs as described, it=E2=80=99s doing its job.=C2=
=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">If your temp is sudd=
enly higher than normal, and for no apparent reason, I would clean the temp=
sending unit and the cable that plugs into it, or it may be a defective/wo=
rn out sending unit. The gas gauge is harder to know where it was from time=
to time.=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Hope thi=
s helps.=C2=A0</div><div dir=3D"auto">Bob Fabie</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br>=
</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div><br><div=
class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Wed, Jun 14=
, 2023 at 1:42 PM dave northrup <<a href=3D"mailto:dave@ranteer.com";>dav=
e@ranteer.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" sty=
le=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left-width:1px;border-left-style:soli=
d;padding-left:1ex;border-left-color:rgb(204,204,204)">
<div lang=3D"EN-US" link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954F72" style=3D"overflow-wr=
ap: break-word;">
<div class=3D"m_-3634971758896689353WordSection1">
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">As a rule of thumb, Moss parts are crap.=C2=A0 They =
only buy the cheapest half ass stuff they can find.=C2=A0 And if there are =
issues they tend to ignore them.=C2=A0 see if you can find a used one from =
one of the spares houses.=C2=A0 If you need a referral,
I have had very good success with several.<u></u><u></u></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p>
<div>
<div style=3D"border-width:1pt medium medium;border-style:solid none none;p=
adding:3pt 0in 0in;border-color:rgb(225,225,225) currentcolor currentcolor"=
>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><b>From:</b> 6pack <<a href=3D"mailto:6pack-bounc=
es@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">6pack-bounces@autox.team.net</a>> <=
b>On Behalf Of
</b>Yahoo<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, June 14, 2023 10:26 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> <a href=3D"mailto:6pack@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank">6pack@=
autox.team.net</a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> [6pack] Voltage Stabilizer Questions<u></u><u></u></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p>
<div>
<div>
<div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:7.5pt;font-family:Helvetica=
,sans-serif">Hi there.<u style=3D"font-family:Helvetica,sans-serif"></u><u =
style=3D"font-family:Helvetica,sans-serif"></u></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:7.5pt;font-family:Helvetica=
,sans-serif"><u style=3D"font-family:Helvetica,sans-serif"></u>=C2=A0<u sty=
le=3D"font-family:Helvetica,sans-serif"></u></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:7.5pt;font-family:Helvetica=
,sans-serif">My fuel and temp gauges weren't moving so I put in a new v=
oltage stabilizer I had on the shelf from sometime in the past. It came in =
a blue=C2=A0 box marked British Spares. The
gauges read now, but the readings are very high compared to before, so pro=
blematic.=C2=A0 I laid on my back with the engine running and tried to prob=
e the stabilizer with a multimeter, but didn't get anywhere.=C2=A0 =C2=
=A0I can try this again setting myself up better if
you can test it this way.=C2=A0 I understand the stabilizer's function=
is to reduce battery voltage down to 10v=C2=A0 for the gauges, so I presum=
e you should see 10V on the I side.=C2=A0 Masters' electrical book says=
its not so simple to test stabilizers.<u style=3D"font-family:Helvetica,sa=
ns-serif"></u><u style=3D"font-family:Helvetica,sans-serif"></u></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:7.5pt;font-family:Helvetica=
,sans-serif"><u style=3D"font-family:Helvetica,sans-serif"></u>=C2=A0<u sty=
le=3D"font-family:Helvetica,sans-serif"></u></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:7.5pt;font-family:Helvetica=
,sans-serif">I presume I need to find and install=C2=A0 a different stabili=
zer?<u style=3D"font-family:Helvetica,sans-serif"></u><u style=3D"font-fami=
ly:Helvetica,sans-serif"></u></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:7.5pt;font-family:Helvetica=
,sans-serif"><u style=3D"font-family:Helvetica,sans-serif"></u>=C2=A0<u sty=
le=3D"font-family:Helvetica,sans-serif"></u></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:7.5pt;font-family:Helvetica=
,sans-serif">I've heard there's issues with the solid state stabili=
zers Moss/BPNW.sell.=C2=A0 =C2=A0Not sure if Moss has rectified the issue.=
=C2=A0 =C2=A0The Rimmer Bros catalog shows one with Caerbont Automotive
written on it.=C2=A0 Caerbont seems to be the manufacturer of=C2=A0 Smiths=
instruments nowadays.=C2=A0 =C2=A0Not sure which one TRF sells, but they&#=
39;re on backorder there anyway.=C2=A0 =C2=A0<u style=3D"font-family:Helvet=
ica,sans-serif"></u><u style=3D"font-family:Helvetica,sans-serif"></u></spa=
n></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:7.5pt;font-family:Helvetica=
,sans-serif"><u style=3D"font-family:Helvetica,sans-serif"></u>=C2=A0<u sty=
le=3D"font-family:Helvetica,sans-serif"></u></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:7.5pt;font-family:Helvetica=
,sans-serif">Not fond of working under the dash, but a repeat of a recent j=
ob normally goes smoother.<u style=3D"font-family:Helvetica,sans-serif"></u=
><u style=3D"font-family:Helvetica,sans-serif"></u></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:7.5pt;font-family:Helvetica=
,sans-serif"><u style=3D"font-family:Helvetica,sans-serif"></u>=C2=A0<u sty=
le=3D"font-family:Helvetica,sans-serif"></u></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:7.5pt;font-family:Helvetica=
,sans-serif">Thank you for your advice,<u style=3D"font-family:Helvetica,sa=
ns-serif"></u><u style=3D"font-family:Helvetica,sans-serif"></u></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:7.5pt;font-family:Helvetica=
,sans-serif"><u style=3D"font-family:Helvetica,sans-serif"></u>=C2=A0<u sty=
le=3D"font-family:Helvetica,sans-serif"></u></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:7.5pt;font-family:Helvetica=
,sans-serif">Cheers,=C2=A0 Bruce Simms 73 TR6<u style=3D"font-family:Helvet=
ica,sans-serif"></u><u style=3D"font-family:Helvetica,sans-serif"></u></spa=
n></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:7.5pt;font-family:Helvetica=
,sans-serif"><u style=3D"font-family:Helvetica,sans-serif"></u>=C2=A0<u sty=
le=3D"font-family:Helvetica,sans-serif"></u></span></p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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