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Has anyone tried Ratco=E2=80=99s coil over shock conversion. It seems to be=
the right way to do this type of conversion.=20
Sent from my iPad
> On May 11, 2020, at 8:24 AM, DAVID MASSEY via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>=
wrote:
>=20
> =EF=BB=BF
> There are several tube shock conversion kits out there and there are sever=
al significant differences. I know of three styles:
>=20
> #1 A simple bracket that mounts to the inner wheel well. This one is evil=
. This kit transfers all the shock loading to the bodywork which was not de=
signed to this and will suffer for it. Avoid at all costs.
>=20
> #2 Multi-piece. This has a series of three brackets on each side. There i=
s a bracket that mounts to the inner wheel well as in the on above but it al=
so bolts up to another bracket in the recess by the gas tank which mounts up=
to yet another bracket that bolts up to the mount for the lever shock. Thi=
s kit transfers the shock loading to the frame point that was designed for i=
t. The down side is there are six pieces requiring 16 new holes in the body=
work and the brackets are bulky. I removed mine after I found the tire on o=
ne side was rubbing against the bracket in the wheel well.
>=20
> #3 single bracket direct to the frame. This part is unique in its appeara=
nce in that it has a serpentine shape, mounts to the frame where the lever s=
hock mounts and reaches up to accept the top of the shock. It has been said=
that this bracket will crack the frame since it has a long lever arm and co=
uld apply additional torque to the mount. But a quick vector analysis indic=
ates that the forces are parallel to the long axis of the bracket and the lo=
ading on the frame will be not significantly different that those applied by=
the original lever shock. The TR6 frame is infamous for having weak spots b=
ut the shock mount is not one of them. The differential mount certainly is a=
nd 40 year old frames tend to experience cracking regardless of what shock s=
ystem is used.
>=20
> I've used #2 and #3 and, more recently, switched back to lever shocks re-v=
alved by World Wide Auto Parts and find this a good solution for street use.=
I suppose I could have tried a series of telescopic shocks with #3 but hav=
ing other irons in the fire I did not pursue that approach.=20
>=20
> Dave=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Yahoo via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
> To: 6pack@autox.team.net <6pack@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, May 10, 2020 11:12 pm
> Subject: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion
>=20
> An old topic, but came up recently from the mgb side of my club john t=
wist of university motors has a video cautioning folks with this mod on thei=
r b to check the bolts on their conversion brackets. I checked this on my 6=
and all 4 bolts were nicely tight after many years. Also, no frame cracking=
that I could see. After some of the horror storis about this conversion,=
I might not do it again=20
> Cheers bruce simms
>=20
>=20
> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>=20
> 6pack@autox.team.net
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>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/luichinger=
@comcast.net
>=20
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">Has anyone tried Ratco=E2=80=99s coil over s=
hock conversion. It seems to be the right way to do this type of conve=
rsion. <br><br><div dir=3D"ltr">Sent from my iPad</div><div dir=3D"ltr"=
><br><blockquote type=3D"cite">On May 11, 2020, at 8:24 AM, DAVID MASSEY via=
6pack <6pack@autox.team.net> wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockq=
uote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF
<div style=3D"color:black;font: 12pt Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
<div> <font size=3D"3">There are several tube shock conversion kits out ther=
e and there are several significant differences. I know of three style=
s:</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"3"><br>
</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"3">#1 A simple bracket that mounts to the inner wheel wel=
l. This one is evil. This kit transfers all the shock loading to=
the bodywork which was not designed to this and will suffer for it. A=
void at all costs.</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"3"><br>
</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"3">#2 Multi-piece. This has a series of three brack=
ets on each side. There is a bracket that mounts to the inner wheel we=
ll as in the on above but it also bolts up to another bracket in the recess b=
y the gas tank which mounts up to yet another bracket that bolts up to the m=
ount for the lever shock. This kit transfers the shock loading to the f=
rame point that was designed for it. The down side is there are six pi=
eces requiring 16 new holes in the bodywork and the brackets are bulky. =
; I removed mine after I found the tire on one side was rubbing against the b=
racket in the wheel well.</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"3"><br>
</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"3">#3 single bracket direct to the frame. This part=
is unique in its appearance in that it has a serpentine shape, mounts to th=
e frame where the lever shock mounts and reaches up to accept the top of the=
shock. It has been said that this bracket will crack the frame since i=
t has a long lever arm and could apply additional torque to the mount. =
But a quick vector analysis indicates that the forces are parallel to the l=
ong axis of the bracket and the loading on the frame will be not significant=
ly different that those applied by the original lever shock. The TR6 f=
rame is infamous for having weak spots but the shock mount is not one of the=
m. The differential mount certainly is and 40 year old frames tend to e=
xperience cracking regardless of what shock system is used.</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"3"><br>
</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"3">I've used #2 and #3 and, more recently, switched back t=
o lever shocks re-valved by World Wide Auto Parts and find this a good solut=
ion for street use. I suppose I could have tried a series of telescopi=
c shocks with #3 but having other irons in the fire I did not pursue that ap=
proach. <br>
</font></div>
<div><font size=3D"3"><br>
</font></div>
<div style=3D"clear:both"><font size=3D"4">Dave </font><br>
<br>
</div>
<div> <br>
</div>
<div> <br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black">-----O=
riginal Message-----<br>
From: Yahoo via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net><br>
To: 6pack@autox.team.net <6pack@autox.team.net><br>
Sent: Sun, May 10, 2020 11:12 pm<br>
Subject: [6pack] Rear tube shock conversion<br>
<br>
<div id=3D"yiv1024341777">An old topic, but came up recently from the m=
gb side of my club john twist of university motors has a v=
ideo cautioning folks with this mod on their b to check the bolts on their c=
onversion brackets. I checked this on my 6 and all 4 bolts were n=
icely tight after many years. Also, no frame cracking that I could see. =
; After some of the horror storis about this conversion, =
I might not do it again
<div id=3D"yiv1024341777yMail_cursorElementTracker_1589170186222">Cheers&nbs=
p; bruce simms<br>
<br>
</div>
</div>
<br>
</div>
</div>
<span>_______________________________________________</span><br><span>Suppor=
t Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html</span><br><span>Suggested annual d=
onation $12.96</span><br><span>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive</s=
pan><br><span>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums</span><br><span></span><br>=
<span>6pack@autox.team.net</span><br><span>http://autox.team.net/mailman/lis=
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x.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/luichinger@comcast.net</span><br><span></sp=
an><br></div></blockquote></body></html>=
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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