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Glenn
Your high RPM is likely caused by a few things occurring at once. The pistons
hanging up in a high position will certainly do it. That lets more fuel into
the carb throat. The throttle shaft seals are probably worn so the carbs are
sucking in air from there. Add the extra fuel to that extra air, and there's
your problem. Changing the o-rings in the pistons is a must-do but get ready
for a rebuild. The rebuild kit includes new bushings for the throttle shafts.
I've never done it, but I've wondered if spraying some white grease onto the
throttle shafts where they enter/exit the carb body might temporarily seal the
air leak caused by worn seals, or even better, cause the seals to expand a bit.
Might be worth a shot.
Colin
74-1/2
----- Original Message -----
From: 6pack-request@autox.team.net
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, August 12, 2016 11:00:01 AM
Subject: 6pack Digest, Vol 23, Issue 4
Send 6pack mailing list submissions to
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Today's Topics:
1. high RPM, won't come down (Glenn Rattmann)
2. Re: Damaged top (alan salvatore)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 09 Aug 2016 12:20:19 -0700
From: Glenn Rattmann <k6na@cts.com>
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] high RPM, won't come down
Gents,
The car is 74.5 with stock Strombergs (175 CD-2 SE) and stock engine, .
The last carb rebuild by me was probably 2002, but maybe only 4,000
miles since then. My occasional driver; it has about 105k miles on
it. The car had one DPO, he did a valve job at aroung 75k
miles. I'm certain carb shaft bushings were never re-done.
Problem is-- Engine hot, after a few minutes of stopandgo driving, I
might reach say 3500 RPM in normal shift sequences. When I let off
the throttle during shifting, or want to decelerate, the RPM
sometimes stays at the high peak-- like 3500! A few frantic kicks of
the pedal will "usually" bring things down to normal idle-- but it's
dicey. There is no stumble on acceleration.
I have inspected the action of the pedal/carb linkage when car is at
rest, and nothing there seems amiss. So I don't think the linkage is
hanging up somewhere (externally).
Dashpots are losing oil 'too quickly' and I always have to top them
up after the car sits for extended periods (weeks) following, say, a
90 mile drive. Yesterday I pulled the air cleaner for a look, and
noticed both carbs have oily gunk on the piston and the contact area
of the carb bottom interface The rear one is worse than the front
one. Not much doubt that the bypassing oil is responsible for the
gunk-- but can the gunk be the cause of the symptom?
After some carb cleaner spray, and cleaning out the reachable areas,
and adding some oil, I notice the pistons lift normally, falling with
a normal 'click' . Prior to the cleaning, the pistons didn't fall
normally, but were hanging up slightly when falling.
I pulled the carb tops and lifted out the
diaphragm/piston/needle. The diaphragms seem ok to me (no obvious
tears or cracks) and the alignment tab was correct. I suppose
"pinholes" could be there, but not visible...? Pistons look fine,
the needles are straight and move correctly against their spring
action internally.
I have some spare o-rings for the dashpot oil chambers so today I
will install them. Could the leaking oil and subsequent gunk I
mentioned be the cause of the throttle staying high, as
described? If so, then the cleaning plus adding the new o-ring on
each dashpot should eliminate the problem. Any comments appreciated.
I'm aware that anything beyond this procedure (relatively easy, carbs
remain on car) will likely require pulling the carbs . Then we are
looking at things like butterfly hang-up... float behavior...float
valve... bypass valves... and so on, right?
Who sells the best quality float assembly replacement? And which
vendor's carb rebuild kits are "best", which partly means "they
include the dashpot o-ring" as they should. ISTR years ago, some
kits didn't have that o-ring.
Thanks,
Glenn/San Diego
74.5
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2016 07:41:48 -0400
From: alan salvatore <alansalvy@gmail.com>
To: "otral@juno.com" <otral@juno.com>
Cc: "6pack@autox.team.net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Damaged top
<CAAAEehQ8kVbKxZ=qsKit_hpBTnP9=xjMYdoQ2FDcMKb7=JutvQ@mail.gmail.com>
If it was just a tear in the vinyl you could put a patch behind it.
With the window separating, I guess I would toss it and buy new.
Al
On Tue, Aug 9, 2016 at 11:13 AM, otral--- via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
wrote:
> What are my options?
>
> 1. Buy a new top or,
>
> 2. Try to repair. (what are the products you guys recommend?)
>
> Note: my cracks are at the fold ( passenger side window) that include
> tears and partial separation of the plastic window from the vinyl and small
> tear in the vinyl top at the fold.
>
> Alan Graffam in Windsor Locks, CT. 74 French Blue
> ____________________________________________________________
> WAHC
> Durban Millionaire Exposes How He Earns R1079/Hour from Home
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/57a9f36c76888736c41bast01duc
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.96
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>
> 6pack@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
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> options/6pack/alansalvy@gmail.com
>
>
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<html><head><style type=3D'text/css'>p { margin: 0; }</style></head><body><=
div style=3D'font-family: arial,helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; colo=
r: #000000'>Glenn<div><br></div><div>Your high RPM is likely caused by a fe=
w things occurring at once. The pistons hanging up in a high position will =
certainly do it. That lets more fuel into the carb throat. The throttle sha=
ft seals are probably worn so the carbs are sucking in air from there. Add =
the extra fuel to that extra air, and there's your problem. Changing the o-=
rings in the pistons is a must-do but get ready for a rebuild. The rebuild =
kit includes new bushings for the throttle shafts. I've never done it, but =
I've wondered if spraying some white grease onto the throttle shafts where =
they enter/exit the carb body might temporarily seal the air leak caused by=
worn seals, or even better, cause the seals to expand a bit. Might be wort=
h a shot.</div><div><br></div><div>Colin</div><div>74-1/2<br><br><hr id=3D"=
zwchr"><div style=3D"color:#000;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;text-d=
ecoration:none;font-family:Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;"><b>F=
rom: </b>6pack-request@autox.team.net<br><b>To: </b>6pack@autox.team.net<br=
><b>Sent: </b>Friday, August 12, 2016 11:00:01 AM<br><b>Subject: </b>6pack =
Digest, Vol 23, Issue 4<br><br>Send 6pack mailing list submissions to<br>&n=
bsp; 6pack@autox.team.net<br><br>T=
o subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit<br> &nb=
sp; http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pa=
ck<br>or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to<br> =
; 6pack-request@autox.team.net<br>=
<br>You can reach the person managing the list at<br> &nbs=
p; 6pack-owner@autox.team.net<br><br>When replying, =
please edit your Subject line so it is more specific<br>than "Re: Contents =
of 6pack digest..."<br><br><br>Today's Topics:<br><br> 1. high =
RPM, won't come down (Glenn Rattmann)<br> 2. Re: Damaged top (a=
lan salvatore)<br><br><br>-------------------------------------------------=
---------------------<br><br>Message: 1<br>Date: Tue, 09 Aug 2016 12:20:19 =
-0700<br>From: Glenn Rattmann <k6na@cts.com><br>To: 6pack@autox.team.=
net<br>Subject: [6pack] high RPM, won't come down<br>Message-ID: <201608=
091920.u79JKQaC016898@mail40c28.carrierzone.com><br>Content-Type: text/p=
lain; charset=3D"us-ascii"; format=3Dflowed<br><br>Gents,<br>The car is 74.=
5 with stock Strombergs (175 CD-2 SE) and stock engine, .<br>The last carb =
rebuild by me was probably 2002, but maybe only 4,000 <br>miles since then.=
My occasional driver; it has about 105k miles on <br>it. The c=
ar had one DPO, he did a valve job at aroung 75k <br>miles. I'm certa=
in carb shaft bushings were never re-done.<br><br>Problem is-- Engine hot, =
after a few minutes of stopandgo driving, I <br>might reach say 3500 RPM in=
normal shift sequences. When I let off <br>the throttle during shift=
ing, or want to decelerate, the RPM <br>sometimes stays at the high peak-- =
like 3500! A few frantic kicks of <br>the pedal will "usually" bring =
things down to normal idle-- but it's <br>dicey. There is no s=
tumble on acceleration.<br><br>I have inspected the action of the pedal/car=
b linkage when car is at <br>rest, and nothing there seems amiss. So =
I don't think the linkage is <br>hanging up somewhere (externally).<br><br>=
Dashpots are losing oil 'too quickly' and I always have to top them <br>up =
after the car sits for extended periods (weeks) following, say, a <br>90 mi=
le drive. Yesterday I pulled the air cleaner for a look, and <br>noti=
ced both carbs have oily gunk on the piston and the contact area <br>of the=
carb bottom interface The rear one is worse than the front <br>one. =
Not much doubt that the bypassing oil is responsible for the <br>gunk=
-- but can the gunk be the cause of the symptom?<br><br>After some carb cle=
aner spray, and cleaning out the reachable areas, <br>and adding some oil, =
I notice the pistons lift normally, falling with <br>a normal 'click' . &nb=
sp;Prior to the cleaning, the pistons didn't fall <br>normally, but were ha=
nging up slightly when falling.<br><br>I pulled the carb tops and lifted ou=
t the <br>diaphragm/piston/needle. The diaphragms seem ok to me (no o=
bvious <br>tears or cracks) and the alignment tab was correct. I supp=
ose <br>"pinholes" could be there, but not visible...? Pistons look =
fine, <br>the needles are straight and move correctly against their spring =
<br>action internally.<br><br>I have some spare o-rings for the dashpot oil=
chambers so today I <br>will install them. Could the leaking oil and=
subsequent gunk I <br>mentioned be the cause of the throttle staying high,=
as <br>described? If so, then the cleaning plus adding the new o-rin=
g on <br>each dashpot should eliminate the problem. Any comments appr=
eciated.<br><br>I'm aware that anything beyond this procedure (relatively e=
asy, carbs <br>remain on car) will likely require pulling the carbs .  =
;Then we are <br>looking at things like butterfly hang-up... float behavior=
...float <br>valve... bypass valves... and so on, right?<br><br>Who sells t=
he best quality float assembly replacement? And which <br>vendor's ca=
rb rebuild kits are "best", which partly means "they <br>include the =
dashpot o-ring" as they should. ISTR years ago, some <br>kits didn't =
have that o-ring.<br><br>Thanks,<br><br>Glenn/San Diego<br>74.5<br><br><br>=
<br><br>------------------------------<br><br>Message: 2<br>Date: Fri, 12 A=
ug 2016 07:41:48 -0400<br>From: alan salvatore <alansalvy@gmail.com><=
br>To: "otral@juno.com" <otral@juno.com><br>Cc: "6pack@autox.team.net=
" <6pack@autox.team.net><br>Subject: Re: [6pack] Damaged top<br>Messa=
ge-ID:<br> <CAAAEehQ8kVbK=
xZ=3DqsKit_hpBTnP9=3DxjMYdoQ2FDcMKb7=3DJutvQ@mail.gmail.com><br>Content-=
Type: text/plain; charset=3D"utf-8"<br><br>If it was just a tear in the vin=
yl you could put a patch behind it.<br>With the window separating, I guess =
I would toss it and buy new.<br>Al<br><br>On Tue, Aug 9, 2016 at 11:13 AM, =
otral--- via 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net><br>wrote:<br><br>> What =
are my options?<br>><br>> 1. Buy a new top or,<br>><br>> 2. Try=
to repair. (what are the products you guys recommend?)<br>>=
;<br>> Note: my cracks are at the fold ( passenger side window) that inc=
lude<br>> tears and partial separation of the plastic window from the vi=
nyl and small<br>> tear in the vinyl top at the fold.<br>><br>> Al=
an Graffam in Windsor Locks, CT. 74 French Blue<br>> _=
___________________________________________________________<br>> WAHC<br=
>> Durban Millionaire Exposes How He Earns R1079/Hour from Home<br>> =
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/57a9f36c76888736c41bast01duc<br>&g=
t; _______________________________________________<br>> Support Team.Net=
http://www.team.net/donate.html<br>> Suggested annual donation $1=
2.96<br>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive<br>> Forums: http://ww=
w.team.net/forums<br>><br>> 6pack@autox.team.net<br>> http://autox=
.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack<br>><br>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http:/=
/autox.team.net/mailman/<br>> options/6pack/alansalvy@gmail.com<br>><=
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s scrubbed...<br>URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/6pack/attachments=
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