Thanks.
So I set the timing last night and retarded it down to around 8 it was higher
(12?). I think it is BTDC, but I forget which is which. Hah. That's a problem,
huh?
I was trying out the timing last night and it was probably set fine.
So do I disconnect and plug the vacuum tube or not?
I guess I'll try to plug it and set to 12 BTDC. I think it may have been close
to that and then with vacuum connected again would retard to around 4 degrees.
Hmm.
Carbs were rebuilt (by me) and fresh
Diaphragms.
Anyone use a device to measure points, dwell, etc? I bought one but that may be
specific to American cars.
I guess I could have the dizzy rebuilt. I dread placing it back in. I recall
that being a pain in the past. What is the opinion of the petronix (?) thingy?
I am guessing that replaces the points?
Thanks so much!
bSent from my Atari 2600b
> On Sep 8, 2014, at 11:19 PM, "Sally or Dick Taylor" <taylorturbo6@yahoo.com>
> wrote:
>
> When you write that you set your timing at "8 degrees" I can't tell if you
> mean before or after TDC. I believe the manual suggests that the ignition
> timing be set at 4 deg. ATDC, when the vacuum retard line is connected. If
> you set yours at 8 deg. ATDC, then your timing is retarded too far. It should
> run that way of course, but the timing will be retarded even when the retard
> feature "goes away" like when you open the throttle. I suggest doing what
> many do here, and that is to plug the vacuum line that goes to the
> distributor, then set the timing at 12 deg. BTDC, as in Before top dead
> center. You'll want the engine idle speed to be as close to 800rpm as you can
> get it using the carb idle screws, as any engine speed more than this will
> start bringing in the mechanical advance that can change the result.
> Reconnect the vacuum retard line, if you wish. The result of reconnecting the
> vacuum retard will slow the engine idle speed down some. If it is then idling
> too slow, speed it up by using the carb idle screws.
>
> Watch the timing marks on your front pulley to be sure they go higher as the
> engine revs go up. If the highest mark is 24 on your pulley, speeding up your
> engine past 2500 rpms should take it beyond this mark.
>
> There is nothing inherently wrong with the 1976 TR6. More original emission
> controls, but it's still possible for your engine to run well.
>
> Dick
>
>
> On Monday, September 8, 2014 9:15 PM, James_ <jattr6@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Ok. I've never mastered the tune up on my 76 tr6. Timing and carbs always
> seem off.
> Anyone in the Portland, OR area an expert and willing to teach me?
> Or maybe someone has an A to Z instruction.
> So far I put in new spark plugs, new distributor parts, set the points,
> adjusted the valves. Now I am at the timing and then on to the carbs.
> I am at 8 degrees not 4 as manual states. (I was higher) but engine goes up
> and back down when I plug in the vacuum. Surges?
>
> Ugh! Makes me want a classic American car. (Shhh...)
>
> I. The past whenever I use the synchro carb bubble tool thingy...never seem
> to balance the carbs and get good running. Is that tool any use?
> Heck, when I do get things balanced somewhat; it never seems to run great for
> long. Constant headache.
> Is it just me or others share the same headache?
>
> Thanks for any help.
>
> James
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