Dale - On vehicles that have a removable inspection plate at the bottom of
the bell housing, one can have an assistant push on the clutch pedal while
using a sharp chisel or other thin blade to pry the clutch disk away from
the flywheel. That trick has worked for me on several older trucks after
attempting with no success to free up the offending disk by gently launching
the vehicle against something solid like a loading dock or a tree. Alas, no
inspection plates on a TR6. I have often thought about locating the proper
spot for a 3/4" pipe plug on the bell housing for such an occasion.
Alex Thomson
-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Dale Katzfey
Sent: Sunday, September 01, 2013 3:49 PM
To: 6 PACK LIST
Subject: [6pack] Clutch not working
He is what has happened.
First, I did not run the car for 2 years. Sat in a garage.
Second, I did get her started.
Third, pushed in the clutch and tried to get it in reverse, gears started to
grind. Tried other gears and could not engage.
Fourth, bled the lines and made sure that the slave cylinder was moving. It
was moving pretty well. I didn't measure it.
Clutch still didn't disengage
Fifth, I jacked up the rear wheels and started it in gear. Wheels spun in
forward and reverse. Pulled the hand break with the clutch in and out. I
just could not get the clutch to release. Even stalled the engine with the
hand break and clutch depressed.
The clutch is probably about 15 years old, but only has about 20,000 miles
on it.
Do I have to get to the clutch or is there something else I can do to free
it up? I really don't want to pull the transmission again.
Thanks for your help.
Dale
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