Bill---The 5.5V is a little low as I recall, but not by much. One of the wires
at the coil + is the ballasted wire, which supplies power after the engine
starts. (The other wire supplies 12V when cranking). If you want to get the 12V
after the engine starts, use a jump wire from the (key controlled) fuse block
over to the coil + terminal. Disconnect and tape the other two, just long
enough to see if this solves your problem. Chances are it won't.
I sounds more like your ignition points are not triggering the coil as it
should. Take another look at how the points should stack on the post, with the
insulation block.
The backfiring suggests that the ign. timing is out of phase. Crossed plug
wires (if that's possible for you) or the spark is frequently going to the
wrong terminal under the cap. This is easy to check, but the steps required
might be too long for this forum. Write back for more, if necessary.
Dick
There
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Wellbaum
Sent: Monday, March 19, 2012 4:10 PM
To: 6pack
Subject: [6pack] TR-6 problem
My '75 Tr-6 has developed a perplexing problem. It starts easily and idles
smoothly on all 6 cylinders. As I start out in first gear the car begins to
buck and jerk almost as if someone was switching the ignition key on and off.
Literally that severe. And it will not accelerate at all but bucks and jerks
with some spitting back out of one of the carbs.
Over the weekend I have replaced:
Plugs, plug wires, dizzy cap, rotor, points, condenser, low tension lead
block, fuel pump, and fuel filter. I have disassembled the two Zenith carbs
and found the float bowels to be spotlessly clean and the floats set to spec.
No improvement.
The battery is putting out 12.8 volts. When I put a multi meter across the
positive pole on the distributor with the ignition key on the best I get is
5.5 volts--and the two wires ending up on the positive side of the coil are
warm to the touch.
Where do I go now? What should the reading be at the positive terminal?
Bill Wellbaum
Frustrated in Las Vegas
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