Wheel base. Okay, I did not consider that. I think some more work on the
car today. Paint the rest of the front suspension and get the Ratco Coil
over Shocks installed.
John Cyg
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sally or Dick Taylor" <tr6taylor@webtv.net>
To: "John Cyganowski" <janah@att.net>; <6pack@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 19, 2011 8:30 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Rear Suspension Question
> John---These shims control the wheel toe. Adding shims to the outside
> bracket increases toe OUT, as would decreasing shims on the inner bracket.
> Conversely, removing shims on the outer bracket increases toe IN, adding
> shims here decreases it.
> What we want to do here, while getting the wheel toe into specs, is to
> maintain the wheelbase. This is meant to be 88 inches, from the center of
> the front wheel hub to the center of the rear wheel hub, on both sides of
> the car. As you can see, if you take most of the shims from both brackets,
> the WB would decrease on this side of the car. Best to keep the factory
> geometry as designed. TR's that I've looked at have generally between two
> to four shims on both sides of the car.
>
> Dick
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Cyganowski
> Sent: Friday, August 19, 2011 3:44 PM
> To: 6pack@autox.team.net
> Subject: [6pack] Rear Suspension Question
>
> Hi All-
>
> Okay I have another question regarding the rear suspension.
>
> I believe the shims are for castor adjustment?
>
> On my passenger side, I had 4 shims on the inner bracket and 3 shims on
> the
> outer bracket.
>
> Would this not be the same as having 1 shim on the inner bracket and 0
> shims
> on the outer bracket?
>
> What am I missing.
>
> Nelson's tome on Buckeye is helpful, but it is dense and it will take me a
> while to get my mind wrapped around this one.
>
> Thanks.
> John Cyg
> CC52927LO
> 70 Damson
>
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>
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>
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