Hi Michael......... your questions are an excellent reason to buy Dan
Masters' Electrical Handbook!
Per Dan:
If water temp gauge is OK and it's just the fuel gauge follow these steps.
Those two gauges are "wired together" via the voltage stabilizer.
Fuel Gauge - If it is pegged on high ONLY when the key is on, you have a
short to ground somewhere. Go to the fuel sender and remove the wire to the
gauge. If the gauge reads zero the fuel sender is faulty. If not, reattach
the wire at the fuel sender and go to the gauge and remove the wire from the
fuel sender. If it returns to normal, there is a short in the wire from the
sender. If it doesn't , the short is in the gauge itself.
Ammeter: This gauge is Polarity sensitive. Looking at the back of the gauge
with hole for the light at the bottom, the hook ups are: Top right tab =
Brown wire, Top Left Tab = Large Brown/White wire and Bottom Left Tab =
small Brown/White wire.
Hope that helps.
Bob
Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
1975 TR6 with:
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff & CVJs
-----Original Message-----
From: Corbitt, Michael
Sent: Thursday, July 21, 2011 3:21 PM
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Reconditioned Gauges Not Behaving
I recently had all my gauges reconditioned by West Valley. Morris does
beautiful work and was great to work with. I have problems with two of the
gauges (fuel and Amp meter) that I want to run by this group before I call
Morris just in case the issue has a simple solution. I did not have these
problems before the gauges were reconditioned and re-installed.
Fuel Gauge: When the ignition switch is on, the needle goes from empty to
just past full and stays there. Once, the needle moved to the correct
location based on the amount of gas in the tank but stayed there only a
couple
of minutes.
AMP meter: The needle on the AMP meter sits full to the right in the
discharge area when the ignition key is off. When the switch is turned on,
the needle moves to the middle of the gauge but rests a little to the
discharge side.
Last Sunday, I did a long drive (350 miles) with the lights on the entire
time
and I didn't notice any battery/charging issues. When the lights were
turned
on the needle would twitch a little, but not move noticeably otherwise.
Turn
signals had no impact on the needle. Can I assume my problem is in the AMP
meter? If it's a problem with the meter, can these be taken apart and
fixed, or when they go bad do you just buy another?
When I installed the refurbished gauges, I re-attached the wires as they
had
been and I have double-checked this against my Bentley diagrams a second
time.
Any thought on what may be happening here?
All feedback appreciated.
Mike
Corvallis, OR________________________________________
________________________________________
6pack@autox.team.net
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