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Re: [6pack] FW: cluster master cylinder question - should be CLUTCH

To: Sally or Dick Taylor <tr6taylor@webtv.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] FW: cluster master cylinder question - should be CLUTCH
From: William McIntire <william.mcintire@wright.edu>
Date: Tue, 06 Jul 2010 17:53:00 -0400
Dick - George - and All,

Your post jogged what little memory I have left.

Back in the early '60's like '62 maybe, TR3's developed similar problems as 
described here. Problem was the spring in the clutch master cylinders were 
breaking. Results, same problem as here. Was only one model year as I remember 
can't remember which one, apparently a metallurgical problem with springs.  We 
had to use VW beetle springs to repair as that was all that was available. 
Doubt if it is the problem here, but history has a tendency to repeat.

FWIW, hope it helps

Bill
'70 6 one owner 

----- Original Message -----
From: Sally or Dick Taylor <tr6taylor@webtv.net>
Date: Tuesday, July 6, 2010 4:17 pm
Subject: Re: [6pack] FW: cluster master cylinder question - should be CLUTCH 
master cylinder..
To: George Loriot <george_loriot@hotmail.com>, 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>

> George---Interesting story, and seems to be a little different 
> than the usual clutch woes. I'll toss out a couple of 
> suggestions for you to check:
> 
> a) Take out the clutch MC and shake out the inner workings. We 
> want to be sure that the little tang (under the spring) is 
> holding the parts in their place. If this assembly has come 
> apart, squeeze it all together and depress the tang, as 
> instructed by the repair manual or the instruction sheet that 
> comes with the CMC rebuild kit.
> 
> b) If all was OK here, next consider what goes on when the 
> clutch itself is released and re-engages. The diaphragm fingers 
> alone is what pushes all of the linkage back to the 'rest' 
> position. The "adjustable" rod doesn't do squat, and it's a 
> crime for vendors to suggest that the TR6 clutch play problems 
> can be cured with one of these. (All play at the SC is taken up 
> hydraulically)  Anyway...the stroke length here should be 
> close to 1/2 inch at the slave cylinder. IF you're not seeing 
> this, AND a) above is/was not the problem, AND the MC clevis pin 
> linkage is reasonably without slop, then what could be going on 
> is that the fork pin is broken and was the culprit all along. 
> (Altho I suspect it's in the a) area)
> 
> Please write back. I for one always like to hear how these 
> things are resolved. 
> 
> Dick
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