We fought these problems for two years, with very little success,
finally gave up and switched to Richard Goods Differential, Shaft
and Hubs upgrade kits ... the difference is amazing ... all the
components from Richard are of the highest quality and installation
is relatively simple (I was able to do it ...) Not cheap, but you
get what you pay for ...
http://www.goodparts.com
Check out the drivetrain section ....
>On Thu, 1 Jul 2010, Glenn Franco wrote:
>
>>Maybe I'm missing something in the conversation but the biggest
>>cause of clunk in these TR6's is usually worn or broken mounts that
>>need to be
>>replaced. Urethane mounting parts seem to work the best.
>
>Actually, that's not completely true. There are a bunch of places in
>the rear driveline that can cause clunks, the mounts being just one.
>Everyone seems to like to document the broken mounts because - well,
>I don't know exactly why, but it seems to make good material for web
>sites and stuff like that.
>
>:-)
>
>But excessive backlash in the spider (aka sun/planet) gears,
>improper end-float on the pinion bearings and then there's the other
>stuff like failed u-joint bearings and the ever popular sliding
>spline wear thing can all contribute to the clunk experience on
>TR6's. And they all seem to contribute to the ever popular "replace
>everything" scenario that many of us wind up experiencing.
>
>If you have clunks, you pretty much have to look at everything
>above, not just one thing.
>
>At least that's my experience.
>
>>Good Luck
>>Glenn
>>71,72 TR6, TR250 and Spit race car
--
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA
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