Here is a tech tip for anyone interested:
This is the device I used to pressurize the reservoir to assist in "gravity"
bleeding the TR-6 brakes. It turns out that the pump and hold procedure
worked fine on the rear drum brakes but not so well on the front discs. It
seems that when Pilar the Pumper relaxed the brake pedal the open bleeder
allowed air to be sucked back into the system. I had unending trouble getting
all the bubbles out of the front lines until I wrapped the bleeders with
Teflon tape--almost eliminating my bubbles problem. So, here it what I
learned:
You can effectively bleed your brakes by simply opening the bleeder valve and
letting gravity pull the fluid through the open bleeder into a suitable
receptacle. A simple one man operation that is effective if you give it
time.
You can also pressurize the reservoir with a device like that shown in order
to push fluid throught the system. I cannot testify as to how much pressure a
reservoir will take before exploding but I'm certain someone will find out
soon. Hope they're using DOT 5 Fluid when it blows.
And, "if pumping and holding" you should always clean the bleeders off and
then wrap with Teflon tape to eliminate air being sucked back into the system
on the up stroke.
Credits:
Jonas Payne for sourcing the new Master Cylinder through his new restoration
company--and for his wrenching help.
Jonas Payne for the idea on the Teflon tape tip.
Gene Holtzclaw, another TR-6 owner for the gravity bleed idea,
Bill W for the absolutely brilliant idea for the reservoir pressurizing idea.
Bill Wellbaum
British Auto Club of Las Vegas
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