Bruce---If you like to keep the brake pedal high, Uncle Jack's HD spindles and
bearing shims certainly helps control the pads from getting knocked back. Best
that the rotors and pads have no taper, of course.
Dick
-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Simms
Sent: Monday, September 7, 2009 9:27 PM
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Tightening front hubs - what I found
Had my 6 in for an alignment after a bit of mig welding to fix a tear
on right turret where fulcrum pin attaches. DPO hit in that area many years
ago. took a while for stresses to work through. Relief that all went back
together nicely. Shop took over 2 hours to do full alignment, but only
charged me regular price of 4 wheel alignment. nice guys! Recommended them
to other club members. Big problem was rear thrust angles were way out. We
also seemed to cure a long term front camber issue. A bit of a crease on
main rail will remain.
Anyways, alignment mechanic said I needed to tighten
front wheel bearings. Roadster Factory recommends 10 lbs torque, then
backing off just enough to insert pin. Took the old pin out and tried the
torque wrench with ten lbs to see where I was. I had maybe 5 lbs. Cleaned
up all the threads, torqued castle nut on till it clicked 10 lbs and inserted
the split pin at that point as the hole was available. Wheel back on, hands
on tire top and bottom, can't produce any wheel rock. You can still spin the
wheel without a need to strain. Test drive, it certainly seemed tighter.
This procedure seemed to work for someone w/o a lot of mechanical expereince
to rely on.
I have Uncle Jack's kit to stiffen up the stub axles, but haven't
got around to installing it. I'll check all the bearings and re-pack them at
the same time.
Bruce Simms
73 TR6
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