Mike, et. al.:
An inexpensive alternative to ARP is to use grade 10 fasteners from the
hardware store. These are the black oxide finish cap screws, most commonly
with a hex socket head.
I used these when rebuilding my mini - they are much less than the ARP
stuff,
as tough as can be, and available in 1/4" increments. The mini runs 11:1CR and
spins up to 7,000 RPM using a stock cast crank. The bottom end is all grade
10, as are the head studs. I wish I would have thought of this when I rebuilt
the TR6. Using this kind of hardware gives great piece of mind for only a few
pennies more than grade 8.
There is no doubt that ARP is the best, but they also charge a premium
price.
An alternative is grade 10 if you are looking for something stronger than
plain vanilla grade 8 at a reasonable price.
Cheers,
Vance
Vance Navarrette
Cogito Ergo Zoom
I think, therefore I go fast
-----Original Message-----
"I'm so excited I can barely sit still or hold a thought in my head.
Its the excitement only a free man can feel. A free man at the start
of a long journey, whose conclusion is uncertain"
On Apr 16, 2009, at 7:32 PM, Mike Munson wrote:
<snip>
ARP leng th is 4.843 stock is 4.75.
<snip>
-----Original Message-----
So here's the next question: could someone please provide me with the
dimensions of the ARP head studs for TR6 / GT6? Especially, the
difference
in the length of the ARP studs to the stock pieces. I'm trying to
determine if I should bite the bullet and install a set of those or if I
should just shim the pedestals to get another .020" or clearance (I'm
99%
sure that's all I need.
Of course I already installed the head gasket and torqued the head, so
toss in a new head gasket (I presume) for good measure. Unless
someone can
convince me otherwise.
Regards,
rml
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