Chris,
I have two good stub axles should you need to revert to Bob's DM method.
Again, I used a twenty ton press to get these out,but am pretty sure I did
not mess up the threads [I installed uncle jack's stonger axelsas this is a
race car].
On Fri, Feb 27, 2009 at 7:54 AM, Robert Lang <lang@isis.mit.edu> wrote:
> On Thu, 26 Feb 2009, Cris Hemingway wrote:
>
> Need some creative ideas on how to do this, as I have taken off the hub and
>> rotor, and as per the manual "tapped" the end of the spindle to release
>> the
>> taper.
>>
>
> I find the "tapping" reference in the "book" to be quite amusing.
> Particularly, the one for removing u-joints. But I digress.
>
> I had a set that I tried pretty much everything on - beating, pressing,
> beating and pressing, soaking... you get the idea. At the risk of breaking
> the magic 3k barrier, I'll cut to the chase.
>
> When things are stuck, you have two choices - decide the part is junk and
> find another OR resort to drastic measures (DM). With DM you need to
> consider which part(s) can be sacrificed to attain the goal.
>
> In this instance, you probably want to try to save the vertical link. So
> you can sacrifice the axle stub. Reverting back to my episode above, I was
> sitting in the garage one night looking at my oxy-acetylene tanks and
> thinking...I wonder. In less than an hour, I had four links ready for new
> axle stubs.
>
> Takehomes - DO NOT HEAT THE LINK ITSELF. Instead, heat the stub and then
> "quench" with oil. You don't need to make the metal red hot, just get it
> really warm (maybe 150 or so) and then quench. If you get it too hot, the
> oil (or PB Blaster or Kerosene) will "flash" and you have flames which can
> be "an issue". About the only other "trick" is to make a piece of pipe that
> is cut squarely that is longer than the axle stub so you can rest the link
> on that when you try to apply some force. I think 1.5" black pipe is more
> than adequate, the key is that you don't want to mess up the sealing surface
> on the link. But repeat - heat, quench, whack, heat, quench, whack... I use
> a nut on the end of the threads as a matter of habit. It is possible to peen
> the end of the shaft so much you have to cut or grind it off to get it out
> of the link. You don't want that.
>
> If you get the link hot (like red), just toss it. It's def junk at that
> point.
>
> Regards,
> rml
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent
> Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph!
> Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489
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--
Chuck Arnold
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