Peter---For sure, if the fork is securely welded to the operating shaft, there
should be no issues with the pin breaking. Likely just as true when using the
double pin method. Eventually, the outboard bushings will wear, and the shaft
will have to be cut to remove it, to replace these bushings.
Resurface the flywheel if you can see any wear, as sometimes a change in the
clutch disc OD will try riding on the "unused" part of the flywheel, causing
slippage and grief.
Many owners like to lighten the 'wheel at this time.
Some grease on the front cover is OK. I would wipe off what's there and use the
grease supplied with the Gunst bearing and sleeve. Be sure this front cover has
not worn to the point that will let the new sleeve sag. I like to see no more
than .005 difference between the cover OD and the sleeve ID. Others say more
clearance is necessary to keep these parts from "sticking". I have found too
much clearance leads to this bearing to run off center to the clutch, which can
lead to squealling, or chirping.
Dick
-----Original Message-----
From: PeterSchop@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, October 19, 2008 1:22 PM
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] new clutch
Since the trans is readily accessible right now, I have decided to renew the
clutch on my six even though it worked fine, smooth, no slip and not too
heavy. Not knowing what I would find when I opened it up, I picked up a
slightly
used Laycock Sheffield pressure plate and disk. I had the disk relined. I
also picked up a new TR4 cross shaft with grease fittings, larger TR4
bushings,
new fork secured with split pin and modified heavy duty tapered pin. I also
bought a Gunst throw out bearing.
Now that I opened it up, I find that the car has the early Borg & Beck
pressure plate and disk measuring .270", and a RHP TOB. Both the TOB and the
fingers on the plate show quite noticeable wear. The surprise is that the
clutch
fork is welded to the cross shaft. The shaft rotates easily and has very
little up and down movement.
I have decided to leave the cross shaft with fork welded to it in the bell
housing seeing that it is working fine and "if it ain't broke don't fix it".
I am also putting in the slightly used Laycock pressure plate and relined
disk and Gunst TOB. Any comments as to am I doing the right thing before I put
it all back together? I don't want to have to take it apart again after it is
on the road.
Should I have the flywheel resurfaced? Also, there was a lot of grease where
the TOB sleeve slides on the mainshaft. Is this necessary?
TIA,
Peter Schoppelry
TR6 '69
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