The head gasket does have the metal rings that fit into the grooves around the
cylinders. It doesn't show much damage, if any, but it only ran about 5
minutes after the incident happened. So not too much time to do any more
damage. I think I'll take listers' advice and have the head milled a bit, so
it'll be surfaced flat and a little higher CR (maybe 9:1) and have a go at it.
I took out 2 valves and they look good, with no slop in the valve guides. So
I think I'll remove the carbon from valves and chambers and use an
old-fashioned valve lapping tool to lap the seats a bit.
I'll check the compression before finishing the final assembly. Thanks to all
who responded.
George Loriot
1976 TR6> Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2008 14:18:24 -0700> From: mblunsfordsr@yahoo.com>
To: 6pack@autox.team.net> Subject: [6pack] Blown Head Gasket> > One obvious
issue that I haven't seen discussed is which head gasket was on> the car? As
most 6 packers know, the late model TR 6 engine has a groove> around each
cylinder in the block and requires a late model gasket with a> reenforced
(metal) circle around each cylinder that fits into the groove. If> your engine
had an early head gasket on it without the reenforcement> circle around each
cylinder this may have contributed to early gasket> failure. > > Also, I don't
think you need to replace the head bolts unless you are planning> on a high
performance application. I have rebuilt 3 or four engines and all I> ever do
is clean the threads with a tap and dye set and reinstall. I concur> with the
suggestion that since you have the head off you might as well have it>
surfaced to ensure that it is completely flat. Since it is a late model motor>
with a 7.75 to 1 compression ratio you may as well have the head milled to>
whatever specs give you something close to 9.5 to 1. It's a cheap way to>
significantly improve the horsepower of your engine.> > Mike Lunsford 1970 TR
6 (9.98 CR)> _______________________________________________> > Support
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