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Re: [6pack] [TR] Ruining rheostats

To: jmitch@snet.net, tr3driver@ca.rr.com, 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Ruining rheostats
From: acekraut11@aol.com
Date: Thu, 08 May 2008 22:29:47 -0400
 John,

Sounds like you have found your problem.? By your own description the problem 
only occurs when you tighten down the wood fascia.? Sounds like you are 
pinching a wire somewhere when you tighten things down.? Take a closer look and 
see what you find.

Cheers,

Aaron


 


Aaron Cropley
71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!)
http://www.triumphowners.com/108
2002 Mini Cooper S
Topsham, Maine

 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: John Mitchell <jmitch@snet.net>
To: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>; 6-Pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, 8 May 2008 10:18 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] Ruining rheostats










Thanks for everyones kind advice on my electrical problem.  I've almost 
gone crazy tracing this thing. I have the rheostat juped out of the 
circuit.  I pull the wood fascia forward, everything works fine.  I 
screw it down, and when the left upper corner screw is all the way in, 
the fuse lets go.  I pull it out, move things around, and it works till 
I screw it down.   I finally have it all the way in and all is ok, but I 
haven't put the speedometer and tach back in, as I'm out of fuses:(  I 
even tried changing the head light switch.  I'll let you guys know if it 
works when I have all the gauges back in.  Obviously, something is 
pinching somewhere, but I just cant see anything wrong.  Thanks again,   
John Mitchell

P.S.  I tried those 360 degree red  LED lights in the brake sockets, and 
they are noticeably brighter.  I tried white ones in the back up lights, 
but the result was not as good as the original type bulbs and the color 
is very blue.  Next,  I will try the amber lights, and see if they are 
an improvement.  

Randall wrote:
>> It lasted 
>> several minutes before the fuse blew.
>>     
>
> That would indicate either a slight overload (possibly a wiring mistake to
> another load) or (more likely) an intermittent short.  Shorts in particular
> can be lots of fun to find; I've had this problem several times (on various
> non-TR6 cars) and it usually turned out to be a wire that was pinched in the
> bodywork somehow.  On the Stag, it was the (unused) wire to the gear
> indicator pinched under the center console.  On my Valiant, it was the wire
> to the key illumination pinched in a steering column shroud.  If memory
> serves, there is a center console light on the later TR6 that could be the
> problem.
>
> Careful inspection is where I would start, but if that doesn't work : Remove
> all the bulbs on the circuit and temporarily jumper the fuse with an old
> headlight bulb or similar.  The bulb will pass some current, but not enough
> to damage the wiring.  Then use a magnetic compass to track down where the
> current goes.  Or some places sell a tool that does the same thing.  Likely
> much better, but I've never tried one.
>
> Yet another approach is to find a self-resetting circuit breaker (many more
> modern cars have these in the power window circuits, should be readily
> available at your FLAPS) and jumper the fuse with that.  Then feel for the
> hot wire.
>
> Randall
_
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